Onigiri are comfort food in Japan. The little bundles of white rice, formed into a triangular shape and wrapped in nori (dried seaweed), are popular at convenience stores, train stations and groceries there.

Gohan Market is a Gwinnett County Japanese specialty shop with a cafe that serves tempura, bento boxes, ramen and other made-to-order dishes, in addition to many flavors of onigiri.

Quick and satisfying, the onigiri packets resemble a sushi roll, but the difference is, it’s all about the rice — fillings of tuna, salmon, chashu, roe or bonito flakes are a bonus. It’s a versatile finger food and super easy to eat on the go. The interior is light and fluffy; the exterior is firm. The bundles of medium-grain rice fall apart in your mouth, not in your hands. The toasted nori is shiny and crisp, and bits of grilled salmon add a little smoky flavor.

It’s Japanese soul food, and delightful. On the way out of the cafe, I bought another to put in my bag for later.

Gohan Market. 4015 Holcomb Bridge Road, Peachtree Corners. 770-674-1263, gohanmarket.com

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