The idea of a wine bar as a casual space for exploring and enjoying wine is a good one. However, the label sometimes is misapplied to mediocre restaurants that serve wine.
Happily, Marietta Proper gets the formula right. During dinner hours, wine is at the forefront, with a large list of thoughtfully curated selections by the glass, and even more by the bottle. The food might play second fiddle to the wine, but the menu has more peaks than valleys.
And the simple, smartly decorated new wine bar and cafe on Marietta Square buzzes with energy. The biggest issue many diners likely will encounter with Marietta Proper is getting a reservation.
Credit: Olivia Wakim
Credit: Olivia Wakim
While Marietta Proper cites “The Great Gatsby” as inspiration for its emerald and gold decor, the prices are hardly decadent. In fact, no single item costs more than $20.
The reasonable prices allow diners to sample a variety of items from a wide-ranging, eclectic menu full of crowd-pleasers. Several items change regularly, including the chicken wings, arancini and bruschetta. The versions we tried of those first two items were tasty, with the juicy wings tossed in a sweet, spicy kung pao-flavored sauce and the arancini stuffed with a creamy mushroom filling.
However, the bruschetta was a dud. Soft bread, apparently not toasted at all, was topped heavily with mozzarella, roasted tomatoes and pickled artichokes. While the flavors were fine, the pliant bread disintegrated in our hands.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
A couple of other dishes missed the mark due to a lack of flavor, rather than poor execution. The crispy bar mix — featuring fried chickpeas, jalapenos, wonton strips and lardons — was fried to perfection, but the tempura-like batter lacked seasoning. The same could be said of the jerk chicken empanadas.
And while the chicken skins with bowfin caviar were a delightfully decadent pairing, the roe was spread a bit too thin. Caviar really should be eaten by the dollop. If that means a higher price, it would be worth it to elevate the dish from good to great.
The portions at Marietta Proper mostly were generous, and several dishes surpassed expectations. Candied pork belly burnt ends, with an Asian barbecue sauce and pickled vegetables, beautifully incorporated banh mi flavors into a rich, surprisingly elegant dish. The shrimp cocktail showed a deft touch on the grill, with each of the six shrimp lightly charred outside but tender within.
And an entree called chicken a la Charles was a riot of flavor, with the chicken cooked beautifully and dressed in a lip-smackingly savory pan sauce.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
The wines we tried all were excellent, and the list includes some familiar names, alongside plenty of esoteric picks.
My glass of Kumusha, a blend of cinsault and cabernet sauvignon from South Africa, went well with both chicken wings and orange-miso marinated octopus. I’d also choose the delightful cremant de Loire over many more expensive glasses of champagne. Sommelier Jordan Traylor features wines from independent and minority-owned vineyards, but she also clearly favors taste above all else.
Marietta Proper also serves cocktails, though the long list that keeps the bartenders busy could use some editing, with many on the sweeter side — even typically bitter concoctions, like the barrel-aged boulevardier. My favorite was a weird drink called breakfast in bed, made with sweet vermouth, amaro, absinthe and orange marmalade. The sweetness balanced the bitter ingredients and warm spices.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
So far, Marietta Proper appears to be a huge hit. A server told us that weekend reservations had to be booked at least three weeks out. But the early success does mean the space can get too loud, and bar service can be slow.
Still, it’s easy to see why Marietta Proper is packed. It serves inexpensive, fun-to-eat food and a well-curated, interesting wine list. And, like a fine wine, it should get better with age.
MARIETTA PROPER
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: eclectic American
Service: solid, but still getting up to speed
Noise level: loud
Recommended dishes: grilled shrimp cocktail, arancini, grilled seasonal vegetable board, candied pork belly burnt ends, Italian meatballs, wings, shrimp ravioli, grilled vegetable board, chicken a la Charles
Vegetarian dishes: spicy marinated olives, Buffalo cauliflower bites, cucumber tomato salad, pub chips and dip, grilled seasonal vegetable board
Alcohol: full bar; interesting, reasonable wine list
Price range: $$ ($50 or less per person, excluding drinks)
Hours: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Thursdays-Fridays; 9 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-1 a.m., Saturdays
Parking: free and paid street parking nearby
MARTA: no
Reservations: highly recommended
Outdoor dining: no
Takeout: no
Address, phone: 9 W. Park Square, Marietta. 678-744-2882
Website: mariettaproper.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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