4 dishes to try in Atlanta this month: Global cuisine in your neighborhood
Explore Atlanta’s diverse dining scene with these must-have dishes. Whether you’re tucking into a comforting beef cheek petit chou or fueling up with the smoky heat of chicken suya and jollof rice, this month’s standout plates are all about bold textures and vibrant, global flavors.
Menchet Wot with Injera at Bahel Ethiopian
Menchet Wot is a classic Ethiopian dish with rich, slow-simmered depth. Unlike most Ethiopian wots which use chunky, braised cubes or meat on the bone, Bahel’s Menchet uses finely minced beef, allowing every bit of meat to be completely saturated with flavor. At first, it seems simple. “Menchet” translates to “minced” or “ground,” and “wot” is “stew.” But this is a complex gravy cooked in clarified butter, kicked up with a heavy hand of berbere featuring chile peppers, onions, garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, fenugreek and cardamom. It has a creeping, multidimensional heat that is not just spicy, but earthy, pleasantly bitter and sweet all at once.
You can taste the jammy foundation of a caramelized onion base that is the sauce’s natural thickener. It’s best enjoyed the traditional way, pinched between folds of tangy injera that soaks up every drop of flavor. The sourdough-like tang is a sharp contrast to the aromatic richness of the spicy stew. I particularly appreciated how the fine mince nestled into the tiny holes of the injera. 3125 Briarcliff Road NE, Brookhaven. 404-325-6000, bahelethiopianrestaurant.com
Beef Cheek Petit Chou at the Deer and the Dove
This is playful comfort food with a French accent — a dish that is rich and savory, yet perfect for a light dinner. Two little cabbages (“petit chou”) encase meat and seasonal veggies which are finely cut into brunoised cubes. The crinkled, lacelike leaves of savoy cabbage are blanched for softness but still hold their verdant color and structural integrity. Inside the delicate covering, tender, melt-in-your-mouth braised beef cheek has the meaty, sticky and luxurious mouthfeel attained by a slow braise. Dry aging beforehand concentrates the satisfying beef flavor.
Pooled alongside the tiny parcels is a puree of kohlrabi. It has the creamy texture of potato but with the mild peppery notes of turnip. It cuts through the beef cheek fat, refreshing your palate for the next forkful. If beef cheek is the heart of the dish, Bordelaise is the lifeblood. This reduction of red wine and shallots enriched with demi-glace is a velvety umami bomb that lingers after each bite. I swirled through one or both with each morsel. It paired well with a glass of Ann Pichon Grenache noir. 155 Sycamore St., Decatur. 404-748-4617, deerdove.com
Chicken Suya at Southern Suya
The magic of chicken suya lies in the transformation of a humble leg quarter into a smoky, street-food masterpiece through a West African spice technique. When paired with jollof rice, the delight is doubled. Suya is traditionally cooked over open coals, just as Southern Suya does. As fat from the thigh and drumstick renders and hits flames, smoke rises and seasons the tender meat. Earthy undertones come from a dry rub including cayenne, ginger, garlic, onion powder and paprika. The backbone of this melange of spices is a flavor bridge between West Africa and the grilling traditions here in Georgia — the peanut (or groundnut). The rub creates a nutty crust that seals in juices and provides a deep-toasted warmth that makes the dish feel both exotic and like home.
The jollof rice, cooked in a reduction of tomatoes, bell peppers and onions, is a sweet and acidic contrast to the smoky meat. Its soft and fluffy texture brims with flavors and aromas from thyme, curry, smoked paprika, bay leaves and Scotch bonnet pepper. Fried plantains are just as much a dessert as an accompaniment to the punch of bold spice. 3202 Northlake Pkwy., Atlanta. 770-299-1020, southernsuya.com
Carrots at Staplehouse
This dish is a burst of spring vitality, capturing the crunch and snap that defines the April harvest. Roasted heirloom carrots and circular slivers of globe-shaped Thumbelinas in various shades of orange and yellow give the concentrated, earthy sweetness of young root vegetables. Sugar snap peas are a refreshing, watery burst of green sweetness. To prevent the dish from being overly precious, jalapenos and bits of red onion introduce a sharp spiciness.
This colorful spring bounty is lightly dressed in a rich sesame miso sauce. It’s a creamy, savory umami base that anchors the vegetables and makes the entire plate feel substantial yet perfectly aligned with the warming weather. Toasted sesame seeds and strips of scallion provide garnish and a bit of crunch. Pro tip: it’s best eaten on the patio in the sunshine (or when you need brightness on a rainy day). 541 Edgewood Ave. SE, Atlanta. 404-524-5005, staplehouse.com
