Southern cheese straws get a better-for-you makeover

Cheese straws are a popular nibble at holiday gatherings. There are two types of cheese straws: a French version made of puff pastry shaped into long, twisted strips, and the Southern version, like this one, which is a savory shortbread. Southern cheese straws are typically piped through a cookie press into textured wafers or short rods. This good and good-for-you version is a slice-and-bake adaptation of my family’s recipe, no cookie press required.

To improve the nutrition, I use whole grain golden wheat flour — which offers more fiber and protein than all-purpose flour, and is lighter in color and has a milder flavor than regular whole wheat. To cut the fat, this recipe uses equal parts reduced-fat and full-fat cheddar cheese. Reduced-fat cheeses don’t blend as easily because of thickeners and stabilizers that replace the fat and are often lacking in flavor. This split allows for greater meltability and trims some of the fat at the same time, making for a happy, healthier holiday dish.

Lightened-Up Cheese Straws

It’s best to freshly grate the cheese yourself instead of purchasing grated cheese, which can contain anticaking agents that affect the texture.

The dough can also be made in the bowl of a large food processor: grate the cheese with the grating blade, then transfer the cheese to a mixing bowl and insert the metal S-blade in the food processor. Pulse the dry ingredients to combine, then add the butter and cheese. Process until combined, about 2 minutes (It will look sandy, but will come together). This recipe can be doubled if your food processor bowl allows. Simply form the dough into 2 logs and proceed with the recipe.

• ¾ cup King Arthur golden wheat flour
• ½ teaspoon table salt
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
• ¼ teaspoon garlic powder
• ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 ounces extra sharp cheddar, freshly grated (about ½ cup once grated)
• 2 ounces reduced-fat sharp cheddar, freshly grated (about ½ cup once grated)
• ¼ cup unsalted butter, room temperature

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick silicone baking mat.
2. In a small bowl, combine the flour, salt, cayenne, garlic powder and black pepper.
3. To a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the extra sharp cheddar, reduced-fat cheddar and butter. Mix on medium speed until smooth and well-combined.
4. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the flour mixture a little at a time. Mix until smooth, about 2 minutes.
5. Gather the dough in your hands and roll the dough on a clean work surface into a 5-inch-long cylinder. Wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, twisting the ends in opposite directions like a candy wrapper.
6. Place the dough log in the refrigerator and chill until firm, about 15 minutes. After chilling, unwrap the log and slice it into even ⅛-inch rounds, rolling the cylinder a quarter turn after every few slices to maintain its round shape as you cut. Place the slices ½-inch apart on the prepared baking sheet.
7. Bake the cheese straws until lightly browned on the edges, about 20 minutes, rotating the baking sheet once halfway through. Remove the baking sheet to a rack to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cheese straws to the rack to cool completely.
8. Store cheese straws at room temperature in an airtight container. They will keep for 2 to 3 weeks.