Four years ago, we wrote our inaugural column for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, covering the basics of vermouth. Since this column was going to be about wine and spirits, we thought, why not start with something that has a foot in both worlds?
We’re revisiting this subject now because of the growing interest in vermouth and questions about how best to enjoy it.
A quick recap: Vermouth is wine that has been flavored or aromatized and then brandy or another neutral spirit has been added for stabilization. If you think about it, vermouth could be considered the original bottled cocktail.
Originally, vermouth might have been a way to make wine more enjoyable, but mostly it was to extend its life. Served in cafes, sometimes over ice, vermouth was enjoyed much like sherry or a dry Madeira. Later, it became a cocktail ingredient in such classics as the martini and Manhattan.
The drink fell out of favor in the mid-20th century, with sweeter cocktails, drier martinis and dwindling sales resulting in a lack of quality vermouth. But with the cocktail renaissance of the 21st century, the vermouth market is broader than ever, with more options for quality vermouths in a range of styles from all over the world.
As an aperitif, vermouth can be served chilled in small coupe glass or on the rocks, with perhaps a squeeze of citrus peel or an olive. In martinis and Manhattans, there are two approaches: the modern way, which is a 2-to-1 ratio of spirit to vermouth, or the older version, where the spirit and vermouth are in equal portions.
Here are some of our favorite vermouths that play the dual role of aperitif and cocktail ingredient:
Bordiga vermouth di Torino extra dry. This sophisticated, layered vermouth is versatile. It makes a brilliantly complex martini, particularly in the 2-to-1 ratio. It also is vibrant and pleasantly bitter as an aperitif. Hailing from Turin in northern Italy, a major center of vermouth production, Bordiga has been making the drink for more than a century. The extra dry variety takes a base wine made from moscato, trebbiano and cortese grapes and blends it with mostly regional botanicals.
Tximista vermouth. This distinctive Basque vermouth is made from Txakoli, a fresh, vibrant wine with an intrinsic salinity and searing acidity. Both the blanco and rojo expressions are made from the regional hondarrabi zuri grape, and offer the same pleasant sweetness level, but the rojo is made with caramelized sugar, imparting a richer layer of taste. Both are delightful with a splash of soda and a citrus twist, or on the rocks with a twist.
Cocchi vermouth di Torino. This has been a go-to sweet vermouth for us (and many bartenders) for decades. It strikes the perfect balance of richness, sweetness and botanical complexity, and doesn’t overwhelm a Manhattan. While it is our workhorse for cocktails, it also is delightful simply chilled and sipped. Notes of vanilla bean and black tea make for a perfect fall drink.
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