We made our way across the carpet of thick green grass, past the carefully manicured flowers exploding in a riot of oranges and yellows, and onto the cushion of the massage table. Outside, the red-clay cliffs soared high above us. Inside, whiffs of jasmine and vanilla and the soothing hands of the masseuse. For decades, when stressed-out residents of Mexico City grew frustrated with the smog, traffic and crowds, they’ve headed to this magical town just 90 minutes south of the chaotic Mexican capital.