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RECIPE: This homemade bread makes a tomato sandwich even better

Light, pillowy, and deceptively full of olive oil, focaccia is a great sandwich bread for summer vegetables.
Courtesy of Marie Restaino.
Light, pillowy, and deceptively full of olive oil, focaccia is a great sandwich bread for summer vegetables. Courtesy of Marie Restaino.
By Chris Wilkins – For the AJC
May 18, 2022

With tomato season approaching, I can’t think of anything else besides sandwiches.

In my near decade-long residence in the South, I have learned that tomato sandwiches, especially at the height of tomato time, are the best sandwiches. One cannot and should not try to improve upon an in-season tomato – they are perfect as is – but since my principal line of work is the “bread” of the sandwich, we can endeavor to make better tomato sandwiches with better bread.

Freshly baked focaccia, famous for the audacious amount of olive oil it bakes in, is an excellent bread for such an occasion. If you are brave, follow directions and don’t wimp out on the amount of olive oil. You will be rewarded with a light, pillowy bread with a subtle corn sweetness, that will provide a perfect vehicle for today’s classic tomato sandwich and tomorrow’s grilled pan con tomate.

Cornmeal Focaccia
  • 6 cups (767 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 6 cups (767 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 1/2 cups (600 grams) water
  • 1 1/2 cups (200 grams) cornmeal
  • 1 tablespoon (19 grams) salt
  • 1/2 packet (4 grams) yeast
  • 1/4 cup olive oil, divided
  • Mayonnaise and sliced tomatoes, for serving
  • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine all-purpose flour, water and cornmeal on low speed just until dough is combined, and no dry bits of flour remain. Cover bowl with a clean tea towel and let rest 20 minutes.
  • Add salt and yeast to dough mixture, and mix on medium-high speed 6 minutes, until dough is smooth and bouncy. It should pull back if you give it a gentle tug. Cover the dough again with a clean tea towel and let proof in a warm place 2 1/2 hours, until it has nearly doubled in size, but before it becomes bloated or fragile.
  • Prepare a rimmed sheet pan (do not use a cookie sheet) or a shallow baking dish by lining it generously with 2 tablespoons olive oil, making sure to coat the entire surface.
  • Place dough on baking sheet and gently stretch it by gently pressing dough with your fingertips to sides and corners of baking sheet. Dip your fingers into olive oil if they begin to stick. Cover dough with a clean tea towel again and let rest 30 minutes.
  • Heat oven to 450 degrees.
  • Pour remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil atop dough, spreading it evenly with your hands. Using your fingertips, dimple the surface, pressing firmly enough to touch the bottom of baking sheet without tearing dough.
  • Bake 18 to 20 minutes, until focaccia is golden-brown.
  • Let cool on baking sheet, then cut into 6 or 12 squares, depending on your size preference, and serve. Slice each square in half like a biscuit, top with your desired amount of mayonnaise and sliced tomatoes, and serve. Makes 12 tea sandwiches or 6 large sandwiches.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving, based on 12 foccacia squares: 295 calories (percent of calories from fat, 3), 8 grams protein, 62 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 1 gram total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 582 milligrams sodium.

Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.

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About the Author

Chris Wilkins

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