There is a bakery in Paris famous for simple things. For nearly 90 years, Maison Poilâne has enjoyed international renown for big, beautiful rustic loaves of sourdough baked in wood-fired ovens, hearty, seedy rye breads and small, deceptively simple-looking butter cookies called punitions. These small cookies are offered gratis to Poilâne’s many customers, an act that, to me, has always represented the highest expression of the generous spirit that runs in the food world. These cookies are simple tokens of neighborliness, and also happen to be quite delicious.

When I started Root Baking Co. in 2015, this homage to Poilâne’s famous punitions was the first recipe I tested. As is my way, I added a good bit of lemon zest to a very simple butter cookie. I wanted them to brighten people’s days like little suns, so the name seemed to fit. The recipe is simple, and it makes a lot of cookies, so feel free to freeze the unbaked cookies for any occasion.

Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.

Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter

Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram.

About the Author

Featured

Angie McBrayer, ex-wife of James Aaron McBrayer, leans her head on her son Sam McBrayer as she and her three children and two grandchildren (from left) Jackson McBrayer, 3, Piper Jae McBrayer, 7, Katy Isaza, and Jordan McBrayer, visit the grave of James McBrayer, Thursday, November 20, 2025, in Tifton. He died after being restrained by Tift County sheriff's deputies on April 24, 2019. His ex-wife witnessed the arrest and said she thought the deputies were being rough but did not imagine that McBrayer would die. (Hyosub Shin/AJC)

Credit: HYOSUB SHIN / AJC