There’s a sign by the cash register at J’s Snackland, a tiny Smyrna taqueria that shares space with a laundromat and dry-cleaning business, telling customers that prices have increased due to supply chain issues. A plate of three steak tacos, made to order with fresh salsa, rice and beans, will cost you $7.50, instead of the pre-pandemic $5.50.

Still, the three-taco combo plate there is less expensive than meals from fast-food joints, and the steak filling is hot and griddled to order, with finely diced bits of beef that have picked up seasoning and texture on all sides. The richly flavored, savory meat is balanced with a scattering of fresh cilantro and finely chopped onions that add a perfect contrast of temperature and texture.

For an experience like that, plenty of food lovers would pay a lot more than $7.50.

J’s Snackland. 2585 Spring Road SE, Smyrna. 678-213-1016.

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