BOCCALUPO
753 Edgewood Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-577-2332, $$-$$$, boccalupoatl.com
4 of 5 stars [defines excellence in local dining]
Chef-owner Bruce Logue, an Atlanta native, introduced our town to his brand of Italian-American cooking at La Pietra Cucina. Now he has moved to this small spot, nestled in a quiet corner of Inman Park, which has the makings of Atlanta’s next great restaurant.
His buttery 20-yolk tagliatelle attains superstar status, its rich strips mingled with a flavor-forward combination of Tuscan kale kimchee and a flurry of mushrooms. I’m also fond of the subtler bucatini, with gentle notes of smoked bacon, and the dish of slick wide-pappardelle noodles in a very meaty Bolognese.
The menu features a section of “not noodles” (and a selection of rice noodles for the gluten-free diners). I could lose myself in a deep bowl of the hot risotto made with Anson Mills rice middlins, lump crab and house-smoked tomatoes.
Logue’s cooking resonates on a deeper level than can be reached by technical skill and ingredients alone. This chef cooks with an honesty like few others.
