New pasta eatery headed for greatness

Chef-owner Bruce Logue, an Atlanta native, introduced our town to his brand of Italian-American cooking at La Pietra Cucina. Now he has moved to this small spot, nestled in a quiet corner of Inman Park, which has the makings of Atlanta’s next great restaurant.

His buttery 20-yolk tagliatelle attains superstar status, its rich strips mingled with a flavor-forward combination of Tuscan kale kimchee and a flurry of mushrooms. I’m also fond of the subtler bucatini, with gentle notes of smoked bacon, and the dish of slick wide-pappardelle noodles in a very meaty Bolognese.

The menu features a section of “not noodles” (and a selection of rice noodles for the gluten-free diners). I could lose myself in a deep bowl of the hot risotto made with Anson Mills rice middlins, lump crab and house-smoked tomatoes.

Logue’s cooking resonates on a deeper level than can be reached by technical skill and ingredients alone. This chef cooks with an honesty like few others.

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