Pumpkin spice — at its core an innocent blend of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves most commonly used in pumpkin pie — has become a seasonal tyrant. Often presented as orange-hued and artificial, for many, the flavor is no longer a novelty but a nuisance, saturating everything from coffee creamer to potato chips. The true flavors of fall — those that harken changing leaf colors, crisp mornings and a warm fireplace — can’t possibly be captured in a commercially prepared pumpkin spice latte.
We asked a barista, a baker, a pastry chef and a kolache maker to create elevated versions of popular pumpkin spice products. They pulled forward ingredients like cardamom, turmeric and sweet potatoes to offer a more well-rounded profile of seasonal flavors.
CARDAMOM PECAN SWEET BREAD
With its distinct, complex flavor that’s at once spicy, herbal and citrusy, cardamom _ a spice made from the seeds of several plants native to India _ is often underutilized as a fall spice. It pairs well with cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, as well as citrus zests and preserves. Petra Lively, owner of Breadhaus in Grapevine Texas, uses the exotic spice in her cardamom pecan braided sweet bread, an impressive alternative to pumpkin bread that’s easy to prepare.
Makes 6 loaves
12 cups flour
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 tablespoon ground cardamom
4 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon instant yeast (not active dry)
2 eggs
1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla extract
3 1/3 cups water
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons canola oil
2 cups chopped pecans, plus more garnishing top of bread
Egg wash, as needed
1. Mix all ingredients except pecans and egg wash in a mixer with dough hook for 8 minutes until dough is smooth and elastic. Add pecans and mix 1 minute longer to incorporate.
2. Divide dough into six even pieces and cut each piece into thirds. Roll each third into an 8-inch long rope and braid six separate loaves, tucking ends under. Lay on a parchment paper-lined sheet pan. Proof for approximately three hours until dough has doubled in size.
3. Heat oven to 350 degrees.
4. Brush egg wash over loaves and sprinkle with remaining chopped pecans. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes until golden brown and a wooden skewer comes out clean.
TURMERIC LATTE
Popular in Australia, London and in some parts of the West Coast, turmeric lattes are invading coffee shops and social media feeds. The ancient spice has long been believed to have various health benefits. Barista Christopher Craft says the drink is a spicy, fall-inspired pick-me-up, infused with cinnamon, nutmeg and a pinch of black pepper. Try it caffeine-free, if desired, by replacing the espresso with two more ounces of almond milk.
Serves 1
10 ounces almond milk
1 1/2 ounces fresh turmeric juice (see note)
1 teaspoon honey, or more for desired sweetness
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch black pepper
Pinch nutmeg
2 shots espresso
1. Steam the almond milk using a milk frothing wand, or heat in a small saucepan.
2. Add turmeric juice, honey and spices and gently stir to combine. Pour over two shots of hot espresso.
Note: To make turmeric juice, use a juicer to grind 2 to 3 small pieces whole, peeled turmeric root.
SWEET POTATO GINGER CHEESECAKE
Substitute the now ubiquitous pumpkin spice cheesecake for Laurel Wimberg’s sweet potato ginger cheesecake. This is an easy recipe for the gluten-friendly, crust-free treat that can be made as a whole cheesecake or as 12 individual portions in ramekins. For cheesecake lovers who can’t fathom the thought of no crust, we recommend crushing gingersnap cookies to create one.
Serves 10-12
(Use one 10-inch spring-form pan or 12 individual ramekins)
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups sweet potato puree
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Zest and juice from half an orange
4 eggs
1 cup sour cream
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Cream the cream cheese, sugars, spices and salt with a mixer set on low until smooth. Mix in sweet potato puree, vanilla extract and orange zest and juice. Add eggs one at a time, scraping down the bowl. Mix in sour cream.
3. Grease pan or ramekins and line with parchment paper. Pour batter into molds and bake in a water bath for 25 minutes for individual cheesecakes or 50 minutes for a 10-inch cheesecake. Cheesecake is done when surface jiggles as a whole. If the center is more jiggly than the edges, bake a little longer. Chill completely before unmolding. Serve with toasted pecans and whipped cream or marshmallows, if desired.
