Vietvana’s ca ri ga, a traditional Vietnamese chicken curry, offers warm flavors that are rich, yet subtle.

The ca ri ga served at Vietvana, which has two locations, is a simple soup, built on a base of terrific chicken stock that the Vietnamese restaurant serves in its popular pho. The only solids are large, decoratively cut sections of carrot and a chicken leg quarter. The carrots add a tender, vegetal sweetness that plays nicely off the spices in the curry. The chicken falls off the bone, but has lots of flavor, from being roasted before it’s braised.

The complexity and vibrancy of the curry shows in the bright yellow-red broth, with a bewitching combination of spices. The dish is served with your choice of rice or a Vietnamese baguette, but the latter is suggested, to soak up all that rich flavor.

Vietvana. 2831 E. College Ave., Avondale Estates. 404-963-2757; 848 Spring St., Atlanta. 404-748-4001, vietvana.com.

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