Q&A: Why doesn't salty brine dry out chicken?

Q: I watch the Food Channel a lot and some of the food preparation for chicken calls for soaking it in a salty brine. They also tell you to put salt on eggplant and tomatoes to remove the moisture. Why doesn’t it dry out the chicken?

— D.W. Harrison, Mableton

A: The key is not the salt but the period of time exposed to the salt. The traditional trick for softening up firm vegetables or drawing out moisture has been a couple of dashes of salt. But brining requires an extended period — anywhere from two hours to several days — that causes a chemical breakdown within the chicken.

According to “On Food and Cooking” by Harold McGee, brining liquid should be between 3 percent and 6 percent salt, about one cup of salt for every gallon of water. Kosher salt is preferable and dissolves faster, but table salt is fine. The chicken should steep in the mixture in a plastic bag, with the whole bird submerged.

The effect is two-fold. The salt helps loosen muscle filaments, which makes it more receptive to liquid. And, the salt and protein in the muscle interact chemically to increase the meat’s water-holding capacity. The chicken in time “drinks” in the brine.

The meat will become saltier but will also allow the permeation of other herbs and spices and often will require shorter cooking time. This makes for more tender meat. Besides poultry, brine can also be used in the preparation of fish and pork dishes.