Foundation restaurant, Roswell: Uneven cooking at Roswell newcomer

Read the full review on MyAJC.com: Experience highs and lows at Roswell eatery (Foundation)

Chef Mel Toledo recently opened Foundation Social Eatery in east Roswell. Area residents will appreciate the light and airy transformation of a spot that once housed a dark Twisted Taco. The remodeled space is divided into four distinct areas constructed using a mixture of raw and refined materials, with one more finished than the next — much like the fare.

Toledo is working to solidify his nearly two-month-old restaurant’s culinary foundation. Some dishes, like the seared halibut with buttery asparagus sections and brilliant green spring peas, exhibit great finesse and a delicate touch. Others are clunky and awkward, like the messy bowl of bacon-studded pork shoulder topped with an apple-arugula salad.

Once the menu comes together, this eatery has the potential become a draw for residents in an underserved area of Roswell. The groundwork has been laid; now Toledo needs to give it structure.