(Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the May 31, 2007 edition of The Atlanta-Journal-Constitution)
Ria Pell can have an imposing presence. Her hair is typically in either a Mohawk or a flat top and her bulky arms are shrouded in tattoos. But her artfully designed eatery --- complete with a lush back patio and spouting fountain --- is easily accessible to all walks of life. The spot-on neighborhood joint at 421 Memorial Drive in Grant Park blends old-school Southern charm with contemporary touches.
Q: What was the biggest surprise when you first opened?
A: At first I really thought it was really going to be more of a lunch restaurant. I thought the early morning crowd would be geared toward grab-and-go breakfast. On our first day immediately at 8 a.m., everyone wanted a full-on, sit-down breakfast. On our second day, we opened to a 45-minute wait for breakfast. We had to close on Monday to try and restock and regroup.
Q: What are your signature breakfast items?
A: The thing that keeps people nutty are the homemade pancakes. Everything's made from scratch, even the mix. We use real buttermilk, real vanilla. That and the caramelized bananas are keeping me knee deep in business. It's very surprising.
Q: Did you purposefully open across from Oakland Cemetery?
A: I've lived over here the past 13 years. It was a boarded-up liquor store. We were trying to find an empty space, and it happened to be across from the cemetery. It's nice to know that I don't have to worry about condos popping up across the street. Instead it will always be a beautiful, 150-year-old cemetery. My wife and I were married there, so [the cemetery's] real special to me.
Q: You have lots of tattoos. Do you have any restaurant-related tattoos?
A: My business partner Alex Skalicky and I got the bluebird logo tattooed on us.
Q: You're a striking-looking person. Did the neighborhood initially accept you?
A: It was completely open-armed. They seemed excited to see a quality restaurant open up. One that was kid- and user-friendly. I was surprised. The food and ambiance kind of won them over. I stayed in the kitchen most of the time, so they didn't have to see me. [Laughs] Now they know me. It's a strange juxtaposition, out there shaking hands and kissing babies.
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