Better cooking than the bland name suggests

At first pass, you might find this restaurant as blandly nice as its name. There are local craft beers and craft cocktails, plates big and small, nice wooden booths and thick cloth napkins, tall plate windows, and a deep bar where you can easily eat your dinner. It’s where you go when you’re dining with people you don’t really know.

But chef Jeremy Miller has sneakier ideas about good food than the wording on his something-for-everyone menu suggests. He’s also a good technical cook. He firms up a pork shank in a sweet-tea brine, then braises it to melting softness before setting it on a bed of soft grits. With the salty brine and creamy grits, this pork really cottons to its garnish of sweet, spiced tomato jam.

Although it has gone off the menu, I still think about a crisp-skinned char set over a mustard green puree with raw baby mustard greens, orange segments and watermelon radish slices. Seared tilefish with Sapelo Island clams also shows skill. Miller seems to understand how mild fish works with bright flavors.