Things to Do

Great places for shrimp cocktail

June 15, 2009

They never really go out of season, but the spring and summer months are the ideal time to enjoy the cool, light taste of a shrimp cocktail. Here's a look at a crop of our favorite starters, some traditional and some creative, that honor the idea.

— Jon Waterhouse

MIDTOWN

Pura Vida

This tapas restaurant refers to its version as the Coctel de Camarones al Diablo Blanco. The devilish side comes with a garlic and coconut-ginger habanero sauce. The poached shrimp mingle with squash, piquillo peppers (Spanish roasted red peppers) and shallots. According to co-owner Leslie Santiago, the secret's in the sauce. "I don't normally like spicy food," she says, "but it has the perfect balance of spicy with coconut milk and hot sauce." In fact, the sauce is so popular, Pura Vida bottles it and sells it exclusively at the restaurant.

• Pura Vida, 656 N. Highland Ave., Atlanta. 404-870-9797, www.puravidatapas.comMap it and review it.

DOWNTOWN

Thrive

The menu comes courtesy of Ian Winslade of Posh fame and includes a simple yet inventive take on the classic. General manager and partner A.D. Allushi says the Gulf shrimp arrive fresh via Inland Seafood. Thrive skips the glass and opts for bringing the crustaceans to the table on a square white plate. The shrimp cozy up to a salad of melt-away avocado, diced tomatoes and horseradish vinaigrette. If you're really seafood savvy, consider Thrive's sushi selections. Extended hours are suited for a late-night cocktail and catch.

• 101 Marietta St., Atlanta. 404-389-1000, www.thriveatl.comMap it and review it.

BUCKHEAD

The Palm

Like most things at the Palm, an eatery known for giant lobsters, size matters. For its shrimp cocktail, the Palm's kitchen opts for U8 shrimp, which stands for "under eight shrimp per pound." "The texture in a shrimp cocktail is one of the most important things," says general manager Willy Cellucci. "Although the cocktail sauce is the key to the whole thing, you don't want it to overpower the flavor of the shrimp." The Palm uses an "old family recipe" consisting of ketchup, Tabasco, lemon, Worcestershire sauce and horseradish. The dish works well before an entree in the main dining room or with cocktails, beer or wine in the restaurant's bar.

• 3391 Peachtree Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-814-1955, www.thepalm.comMap it and review it.

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse

A short walk from the Palm is the Embassy Suites hotel, where Ruth's Chris Steakhouse resides. Its shrimp cocktail consists of four jumbo shrimp lounging on a bed of mixed field greens with the restaurant's homemade vinaigrette. Guests choose from either a creole remoulade sauce or a snappy New Orleans-style cocktail sauce. When scanning the menu, look for the items listed in bold red type. Those are the classic Ruth's Chris items, and this appetizer falls into that category. Its popularity reigns, according to server Monica Nichols, who says she delivers an average of 10 shrimp cocktails per night.

DECATUR

Coyote's Mexican Grill

Located in an old Mrs. Winner's, this intimate joint has the Americanized Mexican combination plates you'd expect. But Mexican tradition comes in the form of a mammoth glass goblet of shrimp cocktail. A school of shrimp swim in a thin tomato-based mass with chunks of onion, tomato, orange and avocado. A nice spicy jolt permeates the proceedings. A sprinkling of cilantro sits on top, and a pair of shrimp are perched on either side of the glass. Orange and lime slices serve as additional garnishes.

  • 2730 E. College Ave., Decatur. 404-373-9383.
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