Batter up for classic fish and chips
The quintessential pub grub-meets-comfort food, fish and chips are on the menu at neighborhood bars and restaurants all over Atlanta. But lately, a few fine-dining destinations have gotten into the act, doing up new versions of this deep-fried crowd-pleaser. Here are five to look for.
— Bob Townsend
VININGS
Meehan's Public House
Meehan's Ale House features an upscale take on the traditional Irish pub. Part of 101 Concepts (which includes Food 101), it features a full bar with imported beers on tap and grub that goes beyond the usual, including signature meatloaf made with bison, sausage and beef. Fish and chips translate to hefty Guinness-battered cod, with steak fries, "Southern-style" slaw and tartar sauce, available in a 4-ounce or 8-ounce portion. For a fun variation, try the Guinness fish tacos, served with chipotle sauce and sour cream in flour tortillas.
- 2810 Paces Ferry Road, Suite 302, Vinings, 770-433-1920. www.meehansalehouse.com • Map it and review it
DECATUR
Brick Store Pub
Home to what is arguably the best boutique beer selection in Atlanta, the Brick Store Pub has become a fixture on the Decatur square. The convivial atmosphere, drink-savvy staff and reasonably priced menu make it a perfect place for sipping and sampling. Besides burgers, regulars chow down on ale-battered chicken tenders and more sophisticated snacks, including baked brie and an artisan cheese plate. But the freshly cut, hand-dipped cod, with chunky potato wedges and spicy rémoulade sauce, remains the crowd pleaser.
- 125 E. Court Square, Decatur. 404-687-0990, www.brickstorepub.com • Map it and review it
COLLEGE PARK
Manchester Arms
This British-style neighborhood pub is housed in a quaint, two-story, Tudor-style house, with the front yard turned into a landscaped patio area. The menu features a variety of bar food favorites, with some distinctively English touches. Puffy Yorkshire pudding popovers make a fun, savory starter. Burgers, sandwiches, soups and salads round out the standard offerings. But regulars come for the fish and chips — two hefty hunks of flaky cod in a crunchy, golden beer batter, with pickle-y tartar sauce and a pile of fries.
- 1705 Virginia Ave., College Park. 404-763-9980, www.themanchesterarms.com • Map it and review it.
WESTSIDE
JCT Kitchen
JCT chef Ford Fry may be best known for his imaginative takes on simple Southern dinner favorites — including chicken and dumplings and shrimp and grits and sublime fried chicken, served with the likes of macaroni and cheese, collard greens and house-made pickles. At lunchtime, though, Fry stays true to his name and offers up lightly battered and crispy fried cod with fries, Granny Smith apple slaw and kicky "OO-EE sauce."
- 198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta, 404-355-2252, www.jctkitchen.com • Map it and review it
INMAN PARK
Shaun's
Shaun Doty has made his eponymous restaurant a favorite intown destination, luring savvy diners with its combination of assured, ingredient-driven cooking and a chic but cozy neighborhood atmosphere. Dishes ranging from chopped liver and beef tartare to pork schnitzel and steak frites highlight Doty's way of taking the familiar to gastronomic heights with deft execution. His "pub style" fish and chips is a perfect example of that — a huge, center-cut hunk of cod with a perfectly thin-crunchy batter, crisp fries, watermelon pickles and tartar sauce.
- 1029 Edgewood Ave., Atlanta, 404-577-4358, www.shaunsrestaurant.com • Map it and review it
