Fried food remains fair game on the midway

Another opportunity for gastronomical indulgence

The chromatic sights, foot-tapping sounds and mouth-watering scents mean Marietta’s North Georgia State Fair is back in business. Its beauty pageant helps launch festivities Sept. 20. Kids will likely be mesmerized by the vibrant midway’s potpourri of rides and attractions. The centerpiece is the Seattle Wheel from the 1962 World’s Fair, which starred alongside Elvis Presley in the flick “It Happened at the World’s Fair.”

Specialty acts include puppeteer Peter Hart, soaring BMX bikes and Lisa Dufresne’s trained horses. A wealth of music helps pack the fair’s dance card. Christian rock acts Newsboys, Building 429 and Luminate take the stage beginning at 7:30 p.m. Sept. 21. Radio Disney’s concert event features Coco Jones, Shealeigh, Chloe and Halle, and Jack Skuller starting at 11 a.m. Sept. 22. Country stars performing 8 p.m. shows during the fair’s run are Casey James Sept. 22, Sara Evans Sept. 26, Thompson Square Sept. 27, Colt Ford Sept. 28 and Mark Wills Sept. 29.

JON WATERHOUSE

4 to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 4 p.m. to midnight Fridays; 10 a.m. to midnight Saturdays; 12:30 to 10 p.m. Sundays. Through Sept. 30. $7; free ages 10 and younger; $3 parking. Jim R. Miller Park, 2245 Callaway Road, Marietta. 770-528-8989, www.northgeorgiastate fair.com.

At first glance they look like a small plateful of fried shrimp. But 11-year-old Janiece Stewart of Lawrenceville reveals something far more decadent.

A $5 helping of fried Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups.

With a mischievous grin, Stewart said she’s seen these crispy bundles on TV and “just has to try it.”

It’s a thrill ride of fried indulgence at the Gwinnett County Fair, and at several other festivals and fairs around the state this fall. All dietary inhibitions are left at the door as guests enter this world of blinding lights and splashy signage, luring them to harden their arteries and take their taste buds for a spin. It’s as much of a tradition as climbing aboard the looming ferris wheel.

No one may know this any better than fair manager Dale Thurman. With more than 60 years in the business, he’s had the opportunity to watch carnival food evolve from time-honored staples to imaginative gastrointestinal adventures. Some of the sights and smells remain the same. Vendors still dip apples into piping hot caramel and whip up clouds of cotton candy. Yet, Thurman said experimentation continues as fair food mad scientists seemingly drop just about everything imaginable into the deep fryer.

“Last year we even had someone selling fried butter,” he said.

These novelties, such as fried Twinkies and Oreos, have been joined by full meal options. This year at the Gwinnett County Fair you can have a bonafide southern feast complete with collard greens and black eyed peas.

Another go-to item, the funnel cake, which typically costs around $5 to $6 per helping, continues to reign. Gary Moore of Stockbridge chalked up approximately 70 miles round trip to experience the Gwinnett County Fair with a plate load of frosted funnel cake in hand.

“Funnel cakes definitely put me in the mood,” said Moore, who plans on making a return visit before the fair closes shop. “I’m a pretty healthy eater. But if you don’t gain five pounds after visiting a fair, then something’s wrong.”

Becca McCleskey of Hoschton has her own guilty pleasure. Fried Oreo cookies ($6) are typically reserved for fairs, and it’s something she looks forward to each year. McCleskey’s order arrives in a small paper container, the cookies piled on top of each other like tiny, irresistible pillows.

“I tell everyone I have to go to the fair at least for the fried Oreos,” she said.

Meanwhile Janiece Stewart prepares for that first bite of her fried Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. As her teeth cut past the golden batter, and sink into the peanut butter and chocolate, Stewart’s eyes widen. The reaction seems similar to one she might have on the nearby roller coaster, proving that the appeal of fair food may indeed be found in the unbridled thrill.

“I like the way the crunchiness mixes with the candy,” she mumbled with a mouthful.

From ribs on a stick to skewered fried pickle slices, both priced at $7, the Gwinnett County Fair calorie counter keeps on clicking.

And timely food trends are finding their way onto the midway alongside corn dogs and funnel cakes.

The frozen yogurt craze has hit the fair, and the Sweet Monkey Frozen Yogurt stand is making its Gwinnett County Fair debut. This portable version of a contemporary yogurt joint offers an array of flavors from watermelon to cookies and cream flowing from self-serve taps. Visitors shell out $5 for a small cup and $7 for a large, and dress up each with a choice of candy, nuts and fresh fruit toppings.

So who decides what food makes the carnival cut? That cavalcade of calories rests on Thurman’s shoulders. Each year he wades through piles of applicants searching for new tastes and exciting additions. The end result finds 35 vendors packing the fair.

Presentation is a plus. The Slush Bus, a slushie stand, features what looks like a vibrantly painted Volkswagen hippie bus as its basis of operation. Slushie taps are located on the side of the ride dispensing chilly servings of cherry, grape and more priced from $3 to $7.

Others stick to the basics. Inside the Ice House booth, vendor Charlie Parker perpetually tucks Italian sausages in between cushy rolls, topping them with twisted piles of grilled peppers and onions. The $8 creation is “popular with families,” he said, a fair tradition that still beams as bright as the midway lights.