It’s difficult to find a bad choice on the menu at Gio’s Chicken Amalfitano, but if you love olives, the Pollo Amalfi is a must-try.

The rustic dish features copious amounts of olive oil and garlic roasted to its melting point. The single portion contains a quarter of a chicken, which is tender and beautifully roasted. A side of roasted potatoes makes this meal even more filling. The meat and starch are covered with a rich, decadent sauce of whole olives and roasted cipollini onions that are mostly tender, with occasionally crispy edges.

Though it’s an unfussy, straightforward dish, the flavors are elegantly Italian, with plenty of richness and contrast. It’s a meal that feels like it is meant to be shared with family over several glasses of red wine, even if it’s conveniently available for takeout.

Gio’s Chicken Amalfitano. 1099 Hemphill Ave. NW, Atlanta. 404-347-3874, littleitalia.com.

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