AJC BOOKS FOR HOME COOKS

Make leftovers as enticing as the first time around with this cookbook

"Secrets of Great Second Meals"
"Secrets of Great Second Meals"
By Susan Puckett
March 27, 2019

“Secrets of Great Second Meals: Flexible Modern Recipes That Value Time and Limit Waste” by Sara Dickerman (William Morrow, $30).

Growing up with a frugal mom, who never let a spare morsel go to waste, Sara Dickerman and her sister used to joke about “the tennis ball of plastic wrap it took to preserve the thimbleful of salmon leftover from a meal” and “the forlorn Tupperware containing fourteen peas.”

Snickering aside, those early recycling lessons stayed with her — even after she began working in restaurant kitchens and writing for cutting-edge cooking magazines. But, convincing others to share her enthusiasm for leftovers — a word that tends to conjure memories of soggy rewarmed casseroles and dried-out doggy-bag dinners — has been a challenge. Now that high-profile chefs have taken up the cause of combating food waste by touting “upcycled” creations on their menus, that task has gotten easier.

Dickerman, a James Beard Award winner, taps into this new mindset with “Secrets of Great Second Meals.” Her strategy is two-fold: make a meal that uses the previous night’s remnants as enticing as the first; and start planning for those extras on the front end. I gave this a try with her spaghetti and meatballs, followed the next night by a speedy meatball-studded frittata enlivened with cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and two kinds of cheeses. My efforts not only produced two delicious and different back-to-back meals, but the freezable makings for a soup, a hot hero sandwich, or a pizza topping — all covered in subsequent recipes.

Dickerman’s book is full of ideas like this. Braised whole chicken with star anise gives way to ginger-scallion chicken salad with cucumbers; garlicky pork shoulder provides the makings for Yucatecan-inspired pork tacos with pink onions and radishes; bits of planked salmon find a new home in lemony salmon pasta.

You won’t find rigid weekly menu plans here. To Dickerman, that level of structure is too stifling. Instead, she offers us something better: a loose roadmap to good eating, with delicious detours made for improvising that could cure your leftover-phobia forever.

Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.

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About the Author

Susan Puckett

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