Cochran Mill Road, Henderson Mill Road, Howell Mill Road and Terrell Mill Road are among the dozens of Atlanta area streets named for once-thriving grist mills and the 19th-century families that operated them.
A grist mill was an important element in the economy, a place farmers could take their grain to be ground into meal. Farmers in the Midwest may have been growing wheat and rye, but in the South the staple grain was corn. Not corn to be eaten off the cob, but corn to be turned into cornmeal or grits. Biscuits made from wheat flour were fine for special occasions, but cornbread and corn pone were the mainstay of everyday meals.
Up in Woodstock at Buckeye Creek Farm, Liz Porter and her husband Randall maintain the tradition of the grist mill. Instead of the water-powered equipment of their 19th century predecessors, the Porters have two engine-driven mills.
“We have two belt-driven mills made by the Meadows Company circa 1940. One is powered by an old Allis Chalmers engine. The other is mounted on a long trailer and is driven by a 1930s Hercules hit-and-miss engine. We will bring that one to the upcoming Grits Festival at the old Hembree Farm Preservation Site (in Roswell) in November. The mills are pretty old but they do a good job,” says Liz Porter.
The mills use granite stones, about 20 inches in diameter, to grind the corn. The stones can be set at varying distances apart; wider to grind grits, closer together for cornmeal. The Porters’ main grind for grits is really coarse, a texture they call “Big Fat Grits” that is a favorite with Atlanta chefs such as Woody Back of Roswell’s Table & Main and Kevin Rathbun for Kevin Rathbun’s Steakhouse.
“When you’re ready to grind, you start with the grits and then work your way down to the finer cornmeal. As the stones get closer together, they create more friction and more heat. As the stones heat up, you can start to smell the corn. I think that’s where we get the expression, ‘keep your nose to the grindstone’,” said Porter.
The Porters started Buckeye Creek Farm as a place to have horses and maybe a little garden. They would just plant a few rows of what they call their “grits corn” and save the seed. “But about 10 years ago we got a grist mill and discovered how good it was when we ground it into grits. People started liking it and now we produce between six-(hundred) and 800 pounds of cornmeal and grits every year.”
That grits corn is a nameless variety that originated with a family in Ellijay. “The cobs grow to be between 12 and 14 inches long, and 20 to 30 percent of the kernels will be solid red. The rest is white with a little yellow from time to time. It’s nice-looking corn and probably dates from the 1800s.” Those multi-colored kernels produce speckled cornmeal and grits.
Porter says people don’t realize the flavor of cornmeal and grits varies by the variety of corn used. “We find our speckled grits have a more nutty flavor than grits made from yellow corn. It’s worth exploring what different farms are producing to find your favorite.”
Cornmeal and grits are seasonal products. Corn planted in March or April will be harvested in September and October. “We harvest our corn and let it dry out before we start grinding. It’ll have a better shelf life that way, although you should always keep your cornmeal and grits in the refrigerator.”
The corn is left in the husk and spread out to dry in the hot roof area of their garage. When they’re ready to grind, they shuck the corn and put it through a hand-cranked sheller, which pops off the kernels. Now the grinding can begin.
The Porters sell their cornmeal and grits at the Sweet Apple Farmers Market and they custom grind for local chefs. Chef Daniel Porubiansky of Woodstock’s Century House Tavern tries to source as much as possible from local farmers, particularly those in Woodstock. “Sourcing locally is better for the community, leaves a much smaller carbon footprint since the food travels less and actually is better from a health standpoint. Without getting too far out there, an example would be when you eat local honey you are less likely to be affected by a particular allergen in your area,” he says.
He uses Buckeye Creek Farm cornmeal for frying green tomatoes or trout, and has two grits dishes on the menu right now, shrimp and grits and Jack-and-Coke glazed bacon on grits.
Porter is certain she makes the best tasting cornbread around. “I always use the richest and thickest buttermilk I can find. And I let the batter sit before I bake it. That moistens the cornmeal so the grains are softer.”
The Porters enjoy cheese grits made their big fat grits and cornbread apple cake made for a son-in-law who is gluten intolerant. “When I freeze okra, I cut it into a bowl filled with cornmeal and toss it. Then it goes into the freezer. When I’m ready to cook, I dump it out of the bag. The cornmeal falls off and I save that in a bowl. Then dip the okra into buttermilk, put it back into the cornmeal and it’s ready to fry.”
“People don’t think about how good cornmeal is for desserts,” says Daniel Porubiansky, executive chef and owner of Woodstock’s Century House Tavern. He and the restaurant’s pastry chef Brandon Bentley offer recipes that will convince you cornmeal is not just for cornbread, hush puppies and frying. For those with gluten issues, it’s worth noting the recipes are all gluten-free.
Cornmeal Pudding with Raspberry Sauce
Sheet gelatin makes for the smoothest texture. It’s available locally at Star Provisions on Atlanta’s Westside or at Cake Art in Tucker.
5 sheets gelatin or 2 (1/4-ounce) envelopes unflavored gelatin powder
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
3 cups whole milk
Pinch salt
1 cup cornmeal
Zest of 1 orange, finely chopped
Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped
3 teaspoons finely diced fresh peeled ginger
3 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup granulated sugar
Raspberry Sauce (see recipe) and berries, for garnish
In a medium bowl, cover gelatin sheets with cold water and allow to soften, 5 minutes. If using powdered gelatin, pour gelatin into a small bowl and stir in 3 tablespoons cold water. Allow to sit 5 minutes. In the microwave or a small saucepan, heat Grand Marnier just until it is warm. Remove from heat. If using sheet gelatin, remove the sheets from the water and squeeze. Add to Grand Marnier and stir to dissolve. Set aside. If using powdered gelatin, stir gelatin and water mixture into warm Grand Marnier and stir to dissolve. Set aside.
While gelatin is softening, in a large saucepan, bring milk and salt to a boil. When mixture reaches a boil, slowly whisk in cornmeal, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. When all cornmeal has been incorporated, remove mixture from heat. Stir in gelatin mixture and add orange zest, lemon zest and ginger. Allow mixture to cool.
In a large bowl, whip cream to stiff peaks, gradually adding sugar while whipping. Fold whipped cream into cooled cornmeal mixture. Pour into small molds or small glasses and refrigerate at least four hours. Use hot water to unmold puddings and put on individual serving plates or serve from glass. Serve with Raspberry Sauce if desired. Makes: 7 cups
Per serving, without Fruit Sauce: 300 calories (percent of calories from fat, 62), 4 grams protein, 25 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 21 grams fat (13 grams saturated), 77 milligrams cholesterol, 48 milligrams sodium.
Raspberry Sauce
2 (6-ounce) containers raspberries
1/3 cup granulated sugar, or to taste
1/3 cup water
Fresh lemon juice, to taste
In a small saucepan, combine berries, sugar, water and lemon juice. Bring to a boil and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. In the jar of a blender, puree mixture. Strain mixture through a fine sieve and set aside to cool. Makes: 1 cup
Per 1-tablespoon serving: 18 calories (percent of calories from fat, 4), trace protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, trace fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, trace sodium.
Cornmeal Souffle
These souffles will rise when they’re baked, although not into huge puffed creations.
1 3/4 cups whole milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for buttering ramekins
1/4 cup granulated sugar, divided, plus more for lining ramekins
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon cornmeal
5 eggs, separated
Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely diced fresh ginger
Sweetened whipped cream, for garnish
In a medium saucepan, combine milk, butter, 2 tablespoons sugar and salt. Bring to a boil. When mixture reaches a boil, slowly whisk in cornmeal, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. When all cornmeal has been incorporated, stir with a wooden spoon until mixture thickens and pulls away from the sides of the pot. Remove from heat. Add egg yolks, one at a time, stirring between each until yolk is fully incorporated into mixture. Stir in lemon zest and ginger. Allow to cool.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Completely butter six 8-ounce ramekins. Coat all sides with sugar. Put a roasting pan with 1-inch of water into the oven to heat.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or with a hand mixer, beat egg whites until stiff, gradually adding remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Fold egg whites into cornmeal mixture and divide between prepared ramekins. Carefully place ramekins in roasting pan so sides are surrounded with water. Bake 30 minutes or until souffles rise slightly and are just set. Do not brown. Remove from oven and serve immediately with sweetened whipped cream, if desired. Or allow to cool to room temperature before serving. The souffles will fall, but still be delicious. Serves: 6
Per serving: 254 calories (percent of calories from fat, 51), 9 grams protein, 22 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 14 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 207 milligrams cholesterol, 117 milligrams sodium.
Apple Cornmeal Brownies
Century House Tavern’s pastry chef Brandon Bentley offers a recipe for a very light cornmeal “brownie.” The recipe doesn’t create a dense traditional brownie. Instead, the squares have a delicate texture and crunch.
3 cups cornmeal
2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup orange juice
2 eggs
3 cups 1/4-inch diced, peeled apple (about 2 large apples)
Ice cream or sweetened whipped cream, for garnish
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal, sugar, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together oil, orange juice and eggs. Stir oil mixture into cornmeal mixture. This will make a very thick batter. Stir in diced apple. Put batter into prepared baking dish and smooth evenly.
Bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the brownies comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack until completely cold.
Place a baking sheet on top of baking dish and carefully flip the brownies onto the baking sheet. Then put a baking sheet on top of the brownies and flip them back over so they are right side up. Cool completely. Carefully cut brownies into 12 squares and using a pancake turner, carefully move squares to individual serving dishes. Garnish with ice cream or sweetened whipped cream, if desired. Makes: 12
Per brownie: 450 calories (percent of calories from fat, 39), 4 grams protein, 66 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 20 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 35 milligrams cholesterol, 296 milligrams sodium.
About the Author
