I tried dozens of THC beverages so you don’t have to

Walk into certain bottle shops, specialty markets or even gas stations these days, and you’ll spot them: sleek, brightly colored cans with names like Wiëd, Fetch, Mellow Fellow or Five Flowers lined up next to kombucha or sparkling water like they’ve always been there. THC beverages are one of the fastest-growing (and most confusing) drink categories to emerge in years, with seemingly endless options and virtually no road map for the uninitiated.

So I did what any reasonable person with a curiosity would do. I tried dozens of them.

What does ‘cannabis infused’ actually mean?

The short answer is it’s a legally ambiguous term that varies wildly by ZIP code. While adult-use recreational marijuana is legal in 24 states, hemp-derived THC-infused canned drinks slip onto mainstream shelves across the country thanks to the federal 2018 Farm Bill.

The active compound, THC (tetrahydrocannabinol), occurs naturally in the hemp plant. The two most-discussed cannabinoids are THC and CBD (cannabidiol), and they behave quite differently. THC can give a mild, euphoric high — the giggly effects, the loosening of the shoulders or a pleasant drift off to sleep. CBD is a bit subtler. It is nonintoxicating, delivering a calm, relaxing synergy. Many of the canned beverages play with a ratio of both, like a bartender balancing a cocktail.

How are THC and CBD combined in a drink?

The science behind the CBD/THC balancing act is called nanoemulsification.

THC is oil-soluble, and oil and water (and the other liquid contents of the can) don’t mix. Beverage makers integrate the ingredients using nanoemulsification, meaning the THC-infused oil is broken down into microscopic particles using several techniques, including high-pressure sound waves. Smaller THC particles can help the beverage keep its color, avoid separation and even kick in more quickly.

To find the cans worthy of your hard-earned dollars, I worked through these with intention. I had them with dinner, over ice, at social gatherings, in fancy glassware, straight from the can or, most often, as a nightcap.

I wasn’t looking for a shortcut to oblivion. I was evaluating. Does it taste natural? How is the dosage precision? (Most cans in this space run 5 to 10 mg of THC with CBD added.) What’s its identity — a seltzer, a cocktail, a wine stand-in?

The best ones share something: They know what they are. They commit and execute it cleanly. THC is a feature, and not the entire point.

The worst are undone by the same mistakes: too sweet, an artificial aftertaste that lingers like a bad decision or trying too hard to be a cocktail.

The Lineup

Cycling Frog beverages consist of strong, vibrant flavors, real juices and varying dosages from sustainable, no-spray hemp. (Courtesy of Cycling Frog)

Best overall brand: Cycling Frog

If you only try one brand, make it Cycling Frog. The Seattle-based brand is versatile and makes a product that reliably does what it says it will. Cycling Frog uses real fruit juices and full-spectrum, sustainable and no-spray hemp extract. The 2:1 ratio of CBD to THC gives an experience that is smooth and social, a mild and calming buzz that feels like the first half a glass of wine. The ruby grapefruit (my favorite) with 5 mg THC and 10 mg CBD is tart, citrusy and surprisingly dry, with a bitterness like fresh grapefruit. Other flavors include wild cherry, cran razz and raspberry lemonade. Black currant makes an excellent red wine stand-in. cyclingfrog.com

Honorable Mention: North High Tonics/Higher Vibes

Minnesota-based, these cans have fun flavors such as strawberry melon, blood orange mango, pineapple orange and blueberry citrus that all taste and smell genuinely tropical, tart and sweet with a citrus finish. They have zero sugar or calories and come as 5 mg THC, or 5 mg THC plus 10 mg CBD dosages with a quick 10-to-15-minute onset of buzzy vibes. drinkthenorth.com

Woodstock's 2.5 mg cans are bright and citrus forward, a great place for a beginner to start sipping. (Courtesy of Woodstock)

Best for a beginner: Woodstock Citrus Spritz

This one comes with a wellness-forward philosophy, pairing each flavor with cannabinoid ratios and functional adaptogens, which come from plants and mushrooms and can help with stress, anxiety and fatigue. The citrus spritz is tagged with one simple word: “laugh.” The 1:1:1 ratio of 2.5 mg THC, 2.5 mg CBD and CBG (cannabigerol, a cannabinoid known for its focused, uplifting mental clarity) — plus lion’s mane and reishi mushrooms — is a gentle and sunny mood boost that keeps you engaged but not impaired. The citrus is a tasty mix of lemon, lychee, lime and yuzu. Other flavors include salted melon, dark berries and cherry pomelo. For someone who is curious but cautious, or doesn’t like a hemp taste, start here. woodstockgoods.com

Light and pleasantly consistent, Atlanta-based Nine Dot peach punch tastes like fresh peaches, with full flavor and soft waves of happy vibes. (Courtesy of Thomas Forman)

Honorable mention: Nine Dot Peach Punch

Atlanta-born Nine Dot comes in dosages of 3 mg THC and 5 mg CBG as well as 10 mg THC. Peach punch is supertasty, with fresh peach aromas and a citrus backbone. It’s clear and juicy and quite refreshing with a rapid onset of calm. drinknine.com

Climbing Kites has bold grape flavor and works well as a red wine replacement for a gentle lift. (Courtesy of Climbing Kites)

Best wine replacement (Tie): Climbing Kites Transfusion

For the red wine drinker, this one is genuinely clever. A concord grape juice and handcrafted ginger beer blend with green tea, Transfusion captures something most THC beverages don’t even attempt — the sense of occasion that a glass of red wine carries. It’s complex, dark, grapey and has a pleasant energy. I poured it into a wine glass with dinner. It gave a gentle onset buzz with 10 mg THC and 10 mg CBD. climbingkites.com

Crack the dainty can and pour it into a wine glass, because Silent Flower mimics rose perfectly and induces the same sort of smile. (Courtesy of Silent Flower)

Best wine replacement (for the rose drinker): Silent Flower Sparkling Rosé

This Atlanta-made nonalcoholic sparkling rosé is crafted from actual chardonnay and cabernet grapes with 5 mg THC per 8.4-ounce can. It’s as serious and elegant as it is sessionable. There is a crisp minerality and subtle salinity that keeps each sip from going flat. The effects are social and calm with a 20-minute onset that lasts for an hour of pleasantness. Pour it in a wine glass; it deserves it. drinksilentflower.com

Delicious fresh flavors like salted watermelon and peach iced tea and a choice of 5 or 10 mg THC make Cornbread cans great for a social groove. (Courtesy of Cornbread)

Best at a party: Cornbread Peach Iced Tea

The Kentucky hemp company’s peach iced tea is exactly what it sounds like. It’s refreshing, lightly sweet and peachy in a real-fruit way with cans of 5 or 10 mg THC that lend a sociable and easy lift (I tried both). The onset is quick, so pacing at a gathering is easy. Cornbread also has flavors of raspberry lemonade, salted watermelon and blueberry breeze. cornbreadhemp.com

From Crosstown Brewing, Orbit's blueberry lemonade is a drink Angela Hansberger would grab for the taste alone, and it comes in varying dosages up to 50 mg per can for the seasoned sipper. The writer found 10 mg a perfect nightcap. (Angela Hansberger for the AJC)

Honorable mention: Orbit Blueberry Lemonade

Memphis, Tennessee-based Crosstown Brewing’s zero-sugar sparkling seltzers “drink like La Croix,” in their own words. The blueberry lemonade is a standout — bright, genuinely fruity and light with a quick and clean onset. The line comes in 10 mg, 25 mg and 50 mg strengths. I stuck firmly with 10, which delivered a cheerful and clearheaded lift and, as a nightcap, a good night’s sleep with no brain fog. I “tried” this one many times along with the equally delicious peach flavor. crosstownbrewing.com

Best cocktail replacement: Senorita Lime Jalapeno Margarita

This one won Best THC Beverage from High Times, and it earns it. Made with real lime juice, organic Mexican agave, jalapeno and Himalayan pink salt, it’s a rare cocktail-inspired THC drink that actually tastes like the traditional cocktail. There’s a bit of jalapeno heat, the lime is bright and the agave keeps sweetness in the right lane. It’s mildly effervescent, and at 5 mg or 10 mg THC, it hits like a glass and a half of wine. The others in the lineup — grapefruit, Paloma and mango margarita — are also very good. senoritadrinks.com