Sobban
1788 Clairmont Road, Decatur. 678-705-4233, sobban.com.
There are fewer than 40 seats inside Sobban, the Korean-Southern diner set under the horseshoe-bowed roof and soaring plate windows of a vintage former Arby’s. That hasn’t stopped the crowds that (mostly) wait patiently to try this exciting new restaurant — one whose time most definitely has come.
You could argue that Atlanta has emerged as one of the country’s great towns for Korean food. Enter Jiyeon Lee and Cody Taylor of Heirloom Market BBQ. Their menu here feels one part derived from Korean home cooking, one part Southern farm-to-table, and one part rock ’n’ roll new Asian.
Handmade tofu with miso mousse and fresh noodles in an overnight chicken broth are among the specialties, and the kimchi-miso kale is incredibly delicious, with an umami-rich elixir of a broth you’ll want to drink. An unusual version of bi bim bap starts with a base of kimchi-reddened rice and then adds a marriage of cross-cultural toppings.
Skipping dessert is not an option. You will have bingsu — a kind of sweet and salty Korean sundae served on a base of freshly shaved ice. Puffed grains, fried lotus chips, berries, shredded basil and rice-taffy nubbins all figure in.
