A nice option, but smoky in name only

Food: barbecue

Service: extremely helpful and well matched to the setting in their old gas-station-style uniforms

Best dishes: peppadew peppers, pork rinds, watermelon salad, smoked turkey

Vegetarian selections: salads

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Price range: $$-$$$

Credit cards: all major credit cards

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays

Children: fine

Parking: dedicated lot

Reservations: no

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: moderate to high

Patio: yes

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 128 E. Andrews Drive N.W., Atlanta. 404-848-9100.

Website: www.smokebellybbq.com

Smokebelly attempts to fill the smoke shack gap in Buckhead with what it calls “chef-crafted ’cue.”

Yet the smart design — a harmonious collection of Americana — detracts from the fare, building expectations sky high. You’d expect the grub to follow suit, but the flavors here are just too delicate for barbecue. Instead, those cheffy touches favor the “skinny fixins,” or light barbecue tapas, that were created to appeal to women and those who want a lighter meal before a night out on the town.

Try the simple summery watermelon salad, a nice play of smoked feta, sweet watermelon, pickled onions and fresh mint. Little did I know the only smoky notes I’d get from the meals at this Buckhead barbecue barn would come from that cheese.

I do get a little hickory from the sliced, smoked turkey breast, which is massively moist from its wet brine. Make your meal a combo ($16.25), pairing that turkey with the smoked sausage. The links may not give you much wood flavor, but the charred casings burst with savory juices.