Marinara hits the spot, but pizza remains a work in progress

Chef Ron Eyester established himself in the Morningside neighborhood with Rosebud in 2008 and the Family Dog three years later. Now he has embarked on a third project, Timone’s, a pizza house that he admitted has been “a challenging project.”

Eyester said his new pizza joint is New York inspired, but he was careful to avoid calling it “authentic.” Indeed, you’ll find oversized maps of that city lacquered on the tabletops, themed posters and weathered pressed-tin tiles lining the comfortable space. What you won’t find at Timone’s is a perfected pie, authentic or otherwise.

Pizza serves as this restaurant’s calling card, but whatever your preferred style, this one likely will rouse your ire. Timone’s is still a work in progress and won’t yet be the place to savor the therapeutic goodness of a well-made slice.

Instead, it can be your spot for “marinara Italian” — a restaurant serving many comforting, traditional red sauce-based dishes. Don’t miss the sausage and peppers, with long slices of seared sweet Italian sausage layered with soft braised peppers in a spicy San Marzano tomato sauce.