Where to dine hearty as sweater weather approaches

The thermometer still may eclipse 90, but the calendar is inching its way towards fall. Sometime soon (and hopefully sooner than we think), the air will cool, leaves will turn crimson and yellow, and sweater weather will arrive.

With it comes the want — the need — for heartier foods that warm and comfort. No worries: We've got you covered. Here are some of the rib-coating-est soups, stews and curries in the area.

4th & Swift
621 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 678-904-0160.
www.4thandswift.com

The old Southern Dairies building behind City Hall East boasts real loft space, and it's prime real estate for a restaurant — the B Building has sweeping space, loaded with room and character, and it's big enough for a bulldozer. Add a burgeoning neighborhood trying to make a comeback and a chef with a popular Atlanta pedigree and a restaurant is born: 4th & Swift.

Jay Swift made his mark on Atlanta's dining scene as the executive chef of one of the city's most beloved Southern enclaves, South City Kitchen on Crescent Avenue, where he worked for eight years. In the dairy's old engine room, amid concrete beams and exposed brick, this chef has created a restaurant as open and interesting as the breadth of its space.

Nothing is affected; everything is fresh, simply prepared and arrives happily at the table from a young staff eager to please.

Swift's gentle touch with seasonings — especially salt — could make him the subtlest chef in the city. And what a blessing that is when it comes to summery corn soup, where cream and corn collide in a bowl of velvety wonder without ever getting heavy or overwrought, bedecked with a crispy fried oyster floating in the center of the bowl. Late summer is the best time for corn, and this sweet soup, smooth and creamy, is the epitome of seasonal cooking.

5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30 p.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays; 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays. $$-$$$

The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead
3434 Peachtree Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-237-2700.
www.ritzcarlton.com

Quick — head for The Dining Room before chef Arnaud Berthelier removes the white asparagus soup he conjures from the season for an amuse bouche, rich with late summer flavor and crowned with cream. The only issue: There's just not enough of it. I'd gladly skip a course from the wondrous menu just to get a spoonful more of this elegant, yet completely satisfying soup.

But don't worry if you miss it; whatever soup Berthelier is offering — on or off the menu — will provide spoonfuls of delight.

6-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 6-9:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$$$

Harold's Barbecue
171 McDonough Blvd. S.E., Atlanta. 404-627-9268.

Harold's, an old-time favorite, is still packed on weekdays during lunch rush. A recent visit left me downright sad that the pulled pork and brisket, alas, aren't what they used to be.

But the Brunswick stew ... well, it's still a big bowl of tomatoes and corn, with tons of shredded meat and a hint of spice, just like my father used to make. Warm, never hot. And no potatoes or beans, and that's just as it should be.

10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $

L'Thai Fine Organic Cuisine & Wine Bar
4880 Lawrenceville Highway, Suites 14-15, Tucker. 770-491-9948.
www.lethai.com

Between the happy grunts and satisfied ummphs that occur during the course of a meal at L'Thai, it's safe to guess that most everyone hasn't a clue how well-sourced owner Pithya "Pete" Kongthavorn's organic vegetables and meats are. Even the area's best restaurants rarely focus on organics and sustainability at this level. But for area foodies on the prowl for their next find, the restaurant has become a destination.

The flavors here come alive, especially in the tom kha, a silken bowl of sweet-yet-sour soup layered with the flavors of broth and coconut milk and peppered with bright cilantro, all highlighted by unimaginably fresh tofu. One sip, and you won't need Calgon to take you away.

Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 3-10 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Brunch: noon-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. $$

MGR Palace
1825-14A Rockbridge Road, Stone Mountain. 770-413-1415.

Nobody griddles up dosai better than Nanjunda Ram, the chef-owner of newly opened MGR Palace (the MGR stands for Madras Sri Ganesh Ram) at the Wal-Mart shopping center in Stone Mountain. Ram was the griddle master at Madras Saravana Bhavan in Decatur before it closed. But Ram can do more than dosai.

Almost everything here is worth a taste, especially Saag paneer, a creamy spinach-and-mustard-seed curry dotted with tasty chunks of mild farmer's cheese. Part stew, part curry, this is the slightly spicy North Indian answer to something like chicken-and-dumplings: flavorful, certainly, and comforting to the last bite.

There's thali, too, with incredible dal curries, rice, raita and rice kheer, a favorite sweet dish that's sort of like a runny rice pudding chock-full of raisins and laced with warm cardamom.

11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Lunch buffet: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. daily. $-$$

Tamarind Seed Thai Bistro
1197 Peachtree St., Atlanta. 404-873-4888.
www.tamarindseed.com

No restaurant in Atlanta creates the fire show that is great Thai food with quite the amount of flavor and finesse as Tamarind Seed Thai Bistro. The new name and new location, at Colony Square, are simply beguilements — this is Tamarind Thai Cuisine, dressed up with an interior designed by the Johnson Studio.

Chef-owner Nan Niyomkul, along with husband Charlie and son Eddie, has packed up her galangal root and curry paste from the former 14th Street location, and things couldn't be better. Everything Nan touches turns to beautiful, from the bright fuchsia orchid on each plate to Tamarind's gorgeous new dining room, replete in layers of rich chocolate color, black lacquered tables and bright glass cookie jars of spices along the walls.

Everything cooked here turns to flavor. Along with some of the best fish dishes the city has to offer, the classic Thai salads are small universes of enjoyment. And the green curry, layered with rich flavor, packs on the heat: It starts at the tip of the tongue and makes its way to your bloodstream fast. Handkerchiefs and beer are a must.

Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays; 4-11 p.m. Saturdays; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays. $$$

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)