Once dark and smoky bastions of manly pursuits, pubs and sports bars have been leaning in the opposite direction, creating stylish, well-lit spaces, where families often can be seen and heard. Maybe that's why Stout Irish Sports Pub feels like a throwback to another era, with a no-nonsense atmosphere, strong drink and simple food that cater to an over-21 crowd.

EAST ANDREWS IRISH: Situated in the heart of Buckhead's perennial singles party scene (in the same crowded courtyard complex as East Andrews Café, Andrews Upstairs and Sal's Pizzeria), Stout was most recently home to McDuff's. Approaching from the parking lot (near Souper Jenny), there's a welcoming patio, with flowering vines and wrought iron tables and chairs. The dimly lit main bar area features rustic cobblestone floors, wood paneling, exposed brick and painted scenes of Irish life. But the quaint/cute factor is mercifully limited.

Banks of flat-screen TVs, a pool table, dart boards, several vintage games, a digital juke box and the interactive NTN Buzztime Trivia offer plenty of fun. And downstairs, there's a separate game room with more pool tables and arcade games.

SIX BUCK GRUB: The limited menu features pub grub favorites, all bargain-priced at $6. And while it's not exactly fine dining, that's really not the point. Portions are hefty and offer a lot of bang for the buck. Highlights include a hearty grilled Reuben sandwich, made with corned beef, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing on marble rye. Beer-battered fish and chips come with two meaty batons of cod fried crisp in a thin batter, a pile of fries and tartar sauce.

Irish Whiskey Wings are advertised as marinated in Irish whiskey. On a recent visit, though, it was difficult to detect much beyond the spicy, slightly sweet sauce. Still, the mix of drums and flats were more crunchy than soggy and were served in a basket loaded with celery, blue cheese and fries. Boxty and bangers and mash are variations on the same theme, merging meaty pork sausages, mashed potatoes and gooey Guinness gravy. For diehard burger and beer fans, there's the eponymous "Stout Burger."

STOUT STUFF: Fittingly, the 50-plus beer list features plenty of stouts, from the usual Irish offerings to more exotic import and craft styles. There's Guinness, Beamish and Rogue Chocolate on draft. In the bottle, look for Bridgeport Black Strap, Hitachino Lacto, North Coast Old Rasputin, Victory Storm King and Samuel Smith Oatmeal. The rest of the list isn't quite as interesting. Sweetwater 420 and Blue are the only local beers. But there's a smattering of Belgian ales, including Chimay Blue and Duvel. And the full bar stocks a good number of Scotch and Irish whiskeys.

VERDICT

The name says it all — Stout Irish Sports Pub is a renovated Buckhead destination for drinks, games and bargain-priced grub.

HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Sundays (bar open later)

PRICES: Sandwiches and entrees, $6

CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard, American Express

RESERVATIONS: No

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Fish and chips; Reuben sandwich

PARKING: Lot and street

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

SMOKING POLICY: Smoking allowed

NOISE LEVEL: Moderate-loud

TAKEOUT: Yes

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