First Look: The Café at Linton’s, Atlanta Botanical Garden

1345 Piedmont Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-585-2061. lintonsinthegarden.com.

Though it sometimes seems he’s best known for the crowd-pleasing H&F Burger, James Beard Award-winning chef Linton Hopkins oversees a food and beverage group that includes Restaurant Eugene, Holeman & Finch Public House, H&F Bread Company, and H&F Bottle Shop. Hopkins’ latest destination, The Café at Linton’s, is a renovated space in the Garden House at the Atlanta Botanical Garden, serving lunch, dinner, brunch and snacks.

The look: Particularly compared to the previous Metrofresh quick-service concept, Linton's offers a graceful dining environment — from the awning over the front door and pair of topiaries framing the foyer, to classic French bistro-style tables and cushy stripped banquettes.

The scene: One recent afternoon, the twinkling holiday scenes at the garden proved a festive backdrop for a lunch crowd that included families with small children, tourists and a scattering of employees. Servers in white aprons glided around the dining room, filling water glasses and offering menu suggestions.

The food: Hopkins and executive sous chef Justin Van Aken have created menus that fit the needs of visitors, while elevating the food beyond what's typically found at similar spots, and using herbs and vegetables grown at the Garden. Starters include Sea Island red peas ($7) with ham hock and cornbread crostini, and a regional charcuterie plate ($15). On the lunch menu, find San Marzano tomato soup ($4/$7) with basil pesto and olive levain, and a pressed Cuban sandwich ($9) with mojo roast pork, shaved ham and Swiss cheese. Lunch and dinner plates include White Oak Pastures chicken pot pie ($17) with H&F puff pastry, and shrimp and soft grits ($18/$24) with she crab cream and trout roe.

The drinks: On the beverage menu ($2-$5), look for Mountain Valley sparkling water, Arden's Garden juices, Coke products, tea and coffee. Lots of local beers ($6) are featured, with Three Taverns Prince of Pilsen, Wild Heaven Let There Be Light, Terrapin Hi-5 IPA, and Sweetwater Festive Ale on the current list. There's also a surprisingly large wine list, with some three dozen selections by the bottle and glass.

The extras: Enjoy The Café while you can. In late 2015, it will be replaced by a new full-service restaurant, Linton's in the Garden, housed in a two-story contemporary glass structure.