First Look: Paper Mill Grill, Marietta

255 Village Parkway NE, Suite 310, Marietta. 678-809–5586, papermillgrill.com.

Like an ugly ducking transformed into a swan, the old Paper Mill Grill in East Cobb recently underwent a major renovation. And Eric Ottensmeyer, who was the longtime executive chef at Leon’s Full Service in Decatur, took over the kitchen, creating a menu of modern American cuisine with local and seasonal ingredients.

The look: The redesign features an open kitchen, a spacious bar area, and a terraced dining room that connects to an open-air patio with views of a small lake. The decor mixes stacked stone, painted brick and oak flooring with flickering gas light sconces and rustic art pieces.

The scene: One recent evening, the early crowd was a mix of post-game golfers having drinks at the bar, families with children in the dining room, and couples scattered around the patio. Ottensmeyer was working the hallway-like pass in front of the kitchen, as an energetic group of young servers made the rounds.

The food: As at Leon's, Ottensmeyer's cooking leans to the hearty and familiar with sometimes unexpected touches. On the "to share" section of the menu, find panko-breaded and fried brie with jumbleberry jam and toasted walnuts ($9) and English pea bruschetta with cured ham, aged goat cheese and mint ($8). Among the entrees, there's a double stack cheeseburger ($13) and Sweetwater 420 Pale Ale-battered fish and chips ($17), along with a hefty smoked pork chop with mashed potatoes, slow-cooked rapini and spring chutney ($23).

The drinks: On the cocktail menu, gin classics such as an Aviation ($10) and a Negroni ($12) meet seasonal house creations such as the Watermelon Fizz with Tito's vodka, lime, watermelon-basil syrup, Fever Tree bitter lemon, and pickled watermelon rind ($11). Nearby craft beers are also well represented, with the likes of Reformation Cadence ($6.50) and Gate City 1864 IPA ($7) on the current draft list.

The extras: Paper Mill Grill is now open for lunch Tuesday-Saturday, with an expanded menu of sandwiches and salads, plus some entree plates at reduced prices. Look for Sunday brunch beginning in the next few weeks.