A few of our favorite neighborhood restaurants
Some of our critic's and other staff members' neighborhood favorities from around the metro Atlanta area.
BARTOW
D Morgan's
28 W. Main St., Cartersville. 770-383-3535.
www.dmorgans.com
Chef Derek Morgan's eponymous restaurant in Cartersville is a welcome respite to the unyielding din of sameness two blocks away on U.S. 41. Hard pine floors, fresh flowers, linens and a sophisticated menu of globally inspired dishes make it so. Morgan uses high-quality ingredients, hires a professional wait staff and cooks in an unusually large kitchen. The wine list isn't deep, but amid typical Cabs and Chardonnays are varietals that pair nicely with what comes from the kitchen. And what comes from the kitchen rarely disappoints. Morgan has a deft hand and a good palate, pairing pretties such as succulent duck confit with a fine display of mashed potatoes and seasonal veggies. His style is refined, not manipulated, and shows off his smarts. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Downstairs wine bar open later. $$$
—Meridith Ford
COBB
Elevation Chop House and Skybar1723 McCollum Parkway, Bldg. 600, Kennesaw. 770-485-7469.
www.elevationchophouse.com
The two-story Elevation Chop House and Skybar looks out over Cobb County's McCollum Field, where small jets, private planes and helicopters come and go on a regular basis. Add to the views an affordable menu managed by chef Mix McCrory, who has kept some of the pizazz added by the restaurant's first chef, Richard Blais. So you can still snag a nitrogen margarita with the short ribs, baby backs and brunch items. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sundays. Bar open later. $$$
— H.M. Cauley
Twisted Taco
2606 Busbee Parkway, Kennesaw. 678-324-5041.
www.twistedtaco.com
Casual, affordable food and 100 tequilas are the hallmarks of the Kennesaw location of Twisted Taco. The first franchised venture of the Midtown restaurant is located in a former sports bar on the edge of Town Center mall, where the menu is loaded with more than 16 tacos, quesadillas, burritos and fajitas, as well as a weekly entree special with a Mexican theme. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays. Bar open later. $$
— H.M. Cauley
Vatica Indian Vegetarian Cuisine
1475 Terrell Mill Road S.E., Marietta. 770-955-3740.
www.vaticavegetarian.com
A platter of food centered on rice and bread surrounded by savory pots of goodies to dip and sup: This is thali, and Vatica serves it up by the loving spoonful. Owner Dhirajlal Vallabh is the ultimate jokester, having fun with the customers up front while his wife, Sadhana, does most of the cooking. Don't look for a menu — one day it may be green peppers and potatoes with dal and yogurt curry; the next may be okra and eggplant. Sit back, relax and let the kitchen bring you its best. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily. Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. daily. $$
—Meridith Ford
DEKALB
Co'm Vietnamese Grill
4005-E Buford Highway, Atlanta. 404-320-0405.
www.comgrill.com
Dishes at this Vietnamese favorite are packed with a punch of flavor in a hip little eatery that embraces the intricacies of what this cuisine possesses when conveyed at its best. The digs are neat and trendy, with colorful drop glass lighting over tables, large, colorful paintings, and brooding wall colors. Dig in and enjoy favorites such as la lot leaves stuffed with a spicy lamb, or goi — a salad of julienned mango and apple with minced pork. Buford Highway is packed with food finds, but C'om is among the best. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sundays. $$
— Meridith Ford
Garden Produce & Country Store
567 Stephenson Road, Stone Mountain. 770-413-0338.
Garden Produce & Country Store near Stone Mountain is a quirky place in the best possible sense. Whizzing by on suburban Stephenson Road, you might never guess that inside this rickety wooden building, with the rusty old gas pumps out front, you'll find some of the most scrumptious barbecue and home-style veggies around. But Wayne Germon smokes chicken, pork, ribs and brisket in a wood-fired pit behind the store. And he and his partner, Patty Tennis, grow tomatoes, okra, peppers and other produce in the garden next door, using the bounty for fresh, simple sides and homemade pickles and hot sauce. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 1-6 p.m. Sundays. $
— Bob Townsend
MGR Palace ![]()
1825-14A Rockbridge Road, Stone Mountain. 770-413-1415.
Nobody griddles up dosai better than Nanjunda Ram, the chef-owner of newly opened MGR Palace (the MGR stands for Madras Sri Ganesh Ram), at the Wal-Mart shopping center at Rockbridge Road in Stone Mountain. Ram was the griddle master at Madras Saravana Bhavan in Decatur before it closed. Indian menus in the Atlanta area are starting to woefully remind me of the demise of Chinese menus — they offer a little too much of something for everyone. MGR Palace certainly falls prey to this bit of ill-placed logic. The difference is that almost everything here is worth a taste, even if, like the saag paneer dosa — a thin, lacy dosa filled with cubes of soft farmer cheese and spinach — the origins are a bit suspect. Saag paneer, a spinach-and-mustard-seed curry with cheese, is a classic North Indian dish, while dosai are classically from the South. So while the lines of latitude and longitude might not meet, the result is something really good to eat. Think of it as a yummy hunk of Yankee pot roast wrapped up in a buttermilk biscuit. What's not to like? Some things, such as the bhel puri (which is actually a Mumbai street food), are better here than at Madras: puffed rice, bits of chickpea flour noodles, cilantro, onions and potatoes mix it up big time with a heap of spicy chutney. There's thali, too, with incredible dal curries, rice, raita and rice kheer, a favorite sweet dish that's sort of like a runny rice pudding chock-full of raisins and laced with warm cardamom. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Lunch buffet: 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. $$
— Meridith Ford
Pig-N-Chik
5071 Peachtree Industrial Blvd., Suite 100, Chamblee. 770-451-1112.
www.pignchik.net
From the original on Roswell Rd., Pig-N-Chik has grown to three Atlanta locations. The Chamblee space, located at the tip of a generic strip center, is actually rather lively inside. Especially at lunch time, there's often a long line leading to the order counter. But service is efficient and friendly. Grab a drink and some plastic utensils, and find a seat at one of tables — which are well-equipped for seriously barbecue eating, with checkered plastic cloths and a roll of paper towels. Pig-N-Chik made its bones on its pulled pork, which is lean and moist, and almost ham-like, if sometimes missing smoky surface "bark." It's best enjoyed on thick bread (ask for it toasted), with a generous squirts of the thin, vinegar-pepper or mustard-based sauces. Venturing further into the something-for-everyone menu, other choices include ribs, beef, chicken, turkey or cold smoked salmon, and even nachos and chicken wings. The tangy slaw is a mix of red and white cabbage, with lots of vinegar and just a hint of mayo. Though not purist-approved, the Brunswick stew is meaty and full of potatoes, corn and lima beans, in a spicy, pepper pot-like broth. 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. $$
— Bob Townsend
Shorty's
3701 Lawrenceville Hwy., Tucker. 770-414-6999.
myspace.com/shortys_pizza
Like the original Shorty's in Toco Hills, the Tucker location is quirky place, with a menu and a vibe that's all over the place. There's even live music on some nights. But the main attraction is the crispy and airy thin-crust pizza, baked in a wood-fired Italian brick oven. It comes in 10-inch or 14-inch sizes, with your choice of more than 40 toppings, or try one of the musician-named signature pies, such as the the meaty Sid Vicious, with ham, salami, sausage, pepperoni and ground beef. The addictive, mashed-to-order guacamole is a must-try. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays (later on music nights). $$
— Bob Townsend
Taqueria Los Hermanos/Tucker
4418 Hugh Howell Road, Tucker. 678-937-0660.
The menu at this pleasant spot is all over the place — excellent chiles rellenos stuffed with sweet cheese and batter fried, as well as moist, musky tamales stuffed in corn husks with chicken and masa in a red chile sauce are always specials — while snacks like fish tacos of deep-fried tilapia and a thin, fiery jalapeno tartar sauce round out offerings that read like old standards. There are five brothers Ballesteros that make up the hermanos of Los Hermanos: Miguel, Eddie, Raul, Orlando and Roel, who does the cooking. Miguel makes the desserts. And as good as the food is, Los Hermanos is worth visiting on occasion just to have Kahlua flan and bread pudding, especially if one of the ever-polite waitstaff was willing to make a fresh batch of coffee. Flan is a Latin legacy that has become so ubiquitous it has lost much of the allure it deserves — Miguel's sensuous mix of eggs and cream jelled into a caramelized mass of cold smoothness laced with the coffee flavor of Kahlua is intoxicating, literally and figuratively. He's not shy about using liquor: the bread pudding, served as two thin, shingled slices, is drenched in a riveting tequila syrup-cum-sauce. Almost every region of Mexico has a version of beloved bread pudding, and Los Hermanos' is soft and sweet, almost like a soaked French toast. The restaurant's tres leches has garnered a local rep, but the spongy cake-and-cream-concoction, with its bright fresh fruit topping, pales in comparison. Dessert is easily earned with bites of tacos al pastor, a Mexico City taqueria specialty of pork grilled on a spit crowned with pineapple, sort of like a gyro. There's no spit at Los Hermanos, but the pork pastor is just as succulent as if there were — marinated, then grilled, it has the flavor of vinegar and chiles and offers bits of sweet, acidic pina and cilantro to offset the dark flavor of the meat, all wrapped in a soft flour tortilla with a red-chile-and-tomatillo salsa. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays. $-$$
— Meridith Ford
Wahoo! A Decatur Grill ![]()
1042 W. College Ave., Decatur. 404-373-3331.
www.wahoogrilldecatur.com
Perhaps the American version of a French bistro is the neighborhood restaurant. And perhaps one of the area's best versions of a neighborhood restaurant is Wahoo! A Decatur Grill. The food is down-to-earth, feel-good cookin', served in an atmosphere that makes you feel like you are part of the family. Only at Wahoo!, you won't have to help with the dishes. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 3 p.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 3 p.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$$
— Meridith Ford
FORSYTH
Cinco Mexican Cantina
5755 Vickery St., Cumming. 678-341-6962.
cincomexicancantina.com
Sip a margarita from a rooftop barstool overlooking a park and polo fields at the new Cinco Mexican Cantina in Cumming's Vickery Village. Then head to the dining room for a dip of lobster and poblanos; fried calamari with a chipotle glaze; or cream of lobster soup. Guacamole fans will appreciate the freshness of the hand-crushed sauce blended with cilantro, onions, tomatoes, jalapenos and lime. Enchiladas, burritos, fajitas and tacos are present with traditional fillings and diners also will find the signature fish tacos with fried tilapia and pickled jalapenos. The signature entree: salmon in a lobster sauce. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$
— H.M. Cauley
FULTON
Baraonda Caffe Italiano ![]()
710 Peachtree St. N.E., Atlanta. 404-879-9962.
www.baraondaatlanta.com
Since 1999, Baraonda has been satisfying the crowds that hit the Fox and those looking to nullify a serious pizza jones by hitting the spot with Italian-style sandwiches and fresh, simple salads like the rucola with shards of Parmigiana as well as plates of simple pastas. But for the real Neapolitan deal, stick with anything that started as dough: the pizzas are baked in a wood-burning oven and are magically crispy and thin-crusted in the center, with fat doughiness towards the edges. Brawny waiters in black T-shirts are all part of the trendy attraction, and the dining room has expanded to include a lovely side room. Next door, enjoy the meats, cheeses and wines at the same owners' Enoteca Carbonara. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays; noon-midnight Saturdays; noon-10 p.m. Sundays. $$
—Meridith Ford
Bone Garden Cantina
1425 Ellsworth Industrial Blvd., Atlanta. 404-418-9072.
www.bonegardencantina.com
Driving up Ellsworth Industrial Blvd toward Bone Garden Cantina, a giant mariachi skeleton figure with a guitar marks the spot at this fun, fresh Westside Mexican restaurant and bar. Inside, the colorful Day of the Dead theme continues on a huge canvas with skeleton performers that hangs above the bar and several more sculptures and paintings. The sprawling, a la carte includes reasonably priced tacos, enchiladas, sopes, tamales, burritos and quesadillas, making it easy to create a meal to suit your own taste. Starters include tangy, citrus-marinated mahi-mahi ceviche, and chunky guacamole spiked with tomato, onion and cilantro. The Al Pastor taco is a savory mix of pineapple-marinated pork, guajillo peanut salsa, shredded cabbage, cilantro and onion. Sopes are tender and tasty corn masa cups, with a choice of fillings, topped with refried blacks beans and crumbled queso fresco. For a refreshing side, try the Oaxacan-style betabel salad — sliced roasted beets, spinach leaves and scallions, tossed in vinaigrette, with orange bits and queso fresco. For dessert, the sweet banana empanada is a surprisingly satisfying bite of fried pastry, made more decadent with a dollop of whipped cream. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$
— Bob Townsend
Cafe Circa
464 Edgewood Ave., S.E., Atlanta. 404-477-0008.
www.cafecircaatl.com
Cafe Circa features a winning bar, restaurant and live music concept that manages to come off as both swanky and comfy. Like the atmosphere, the menu is both playfully sophisticated but friendly and familiar, mixing Caribbean-style dishes with American, Latin and Asian influences. Empanadas, stuffed with spicy ground turkey and dried cranberries, and served with apricot sauce, are typical of the savory-sweet combos. Much weirder, but surprisingly addictive, his chocolate chicken wings are deep-fried drums rolled in thick, dark chocolate syrup, and sprinkled with white chocolate shavings. Easier, and equally tasty, mango-infused spicy shrimp with dark rum sauce is a blend of subtle, fruity flavors, served over aromatic coconut rice. Other entrees include, quava jerk chicken cutlets, and sautéed salmon with bourbon lime sauce. For dessert, there's crème brulee and peach cobbler. 4 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Limited menu after 11 p.m. $$
— Bob Townsend
Cameli's Gourmet Pizza Joint
699 Ponce de Leon Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-249-9020.
www.camelispizza.com
Cameli's on Ponce is one of those love-it or hate-it kind of places. And while two words, "gourmet" and "joint," tacked onto the family name probably account for a good bit of that, the unusually crispy, thin-crust pizza is what makes Cameli's different. The colorful Ford Factory Square location and young staff keep the joint jumping. The hip and frugal go for "The Infamous Monster Slice" — a huge triangle of pizza cut from a behemoth pie. The fresh dough is stretched-thin and fired-up to create a crust that's airy, and like flat bread, has a tendency to crunch and crumble. Try the pastas with homemade sauces, such as the fettuccini Bolognese, a traditional, spicy-sweet, Italian meat sauce, with lots of carrots and onions, over egg noodles. Greek salad, with feta cheese, artichoke hearts, Greek olives, and tomatoes makes a good starter, big enough to share. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays; noon-11 p.m. Saturdays; noon-10 p.m. Sundays. Late night menu 10 p.m. - midnight Mondays-Thursdays; 11 p.m.-1 a.m., Fridays-Saturdays. Bar open later. $$
— Bob Townsend
Canoe ![]()
4199 Paces Ferry Road N.W., Atlanta. 770-432-2663.
www.canoeatl.com
Canoe continues its reign as the queen of special occasions in the Atlanta area, whether it's a birthday or just Sunday brunch. Chef Carvel Grant Gould creates a relaxed menu of modern American cuisine with focus and flavor. Her touch is steady, like that of a stern but loving mother, especially with nightly specials of whole fish. Desserts just keep getting better and are among the city's best. The sweeping gardens and view of the 'Hootch make for a meal that's as easy on the eyes as it is the tastebuds. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. 5:30-9:30 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sundays. $$$$
—Meridith Ford
Chef Rob's Caribbean Cafe
5920 Roswell Road,
Suite A-117, Sandy Springs. 404-250-3737.
www.chefrobscaribbeancafe.com
Never mind the temperature or landlocked locale. One step into Chef Rob's Caribbean Cafe and it's a virtual vacation with zingy roasted jerked chicken, relaxed seafood and bountiful fruity drinks. Encased in color, the decor goes tropical with orange, red and yellow walls beaming for attention. But the focus is quickly on the food as fried hunks of plantains burst with heat and banana sweetness. A side order of rice and peas provides a comfortable touch of spice. Triangles of warm coco bread come pudgy and soft. The popular roasted Caribbean jerk chicken easily falls from the bone with a gentle tug of a fork. Slow-cooked, braised beef oxtails with a scattering of butter beans remains a hot grab. Pasta with seafood bling and vegetarian dishes help fill the remainder of the menu. The white chocolate bread pudding comes as a thick square with drizzles of sweetness. But if your idea of dessert is a fruit-heavy tropical drink, Chef Rob's has a lengthy roster from the incredibly rummy Jamaican rum punch to several flavors of mojitos. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays; noon-11 p.m. Saturdays; 2-9 p.m. Sundays. $$
— Jon Waterhouse
Corner Deli
10 Roswell St., Alpharetta. 678-566-0576.
The Siegel family can't seem to keep its sporting attitude out of Corner Deli. It seeps into the decor, methodology and overall spirit of their marvelously fresh and fun sandwich salon. Owner Lance Siegel plays the proverbial quarterback, but mom Zelda is the solid safety. It's her recipes that imbibe a steady stream of homegrown goodness and solid deli authenticity throughout the menu, starting with knockout sammies down to throw-in-the-towel desserts. Lance's brother Les and dad Mel, a former Philadelphia Eagle, join the roster, too. Breakfast runs all day with highlights like Mel's Egg McBagel (an egg and cheese breakfast sandwich with a choice of meat and bagel) and the pancake turnover. The truck driver's special delivers true breakfast bang. Big morning appetites attack two eggs; bacon, ham or sausage; grits or home fries; pancake, toast, biscuit or bagel; coffee or a fountain drink. Everything is made to order, a fact that rings true with each sandwich bite. The luscious corned beef and buttery rye of its trademark Reuben hits tradition directly. Health-conscious customers can lean toward selections like the meal in a peel (a custom-stuffed baked potato) or the sauteed veggie wrap. The kitchen staff whips up fresh, fab salads each day. Don't miss the chicken salad, which stays simple with white meat chicken, celery, mayo, seasoning and touches of garlic, salt and pepper. Blow-your-mind desserts like apple pie with caramel nut topping wrap things up with casual grace. Thick slices of Granny Smith and golden delicious apples peek out from underneath sensationally sweet caramel and a flaky crust. 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sundays. $
— Jon Waterhouse
Fancy Pantry
10595 Old Alabama Connector Road, Alpharetta. 770-650-6544.
www.fancypantry.com
Long food lines typically mean good food. This sandwich, salad, dessert and pasta purveyor, overseen by owners John and Sadie Kennedy, is no exception. Its morning menu is small, but has enough a.m. fuel to carry customers over to a return trip at lunch. Build-your-own breakfast sandwiches or simply a bagel might do the trick. As the hours go by, the menu expands. The best way to take a stab at the assortment of salads is to order a sampler. Approximately 1/4 of the plate gets a mound of assorted greens. A pick of three homemade salads compose the remaining space. Try the chicken pecan, spinach and artichoke, and black bean. The lunch crowd seemingly goes ga-ga over the sandwich, wrap and quesadilla board. A total of three muffulettas (a house version with chicken, a traditional and a veggie) score well. The ample, thick cuts of vegetables (grilled zucchini, yellow squash, carrots, onions, 'shrooms and red peppers) in the veggie version prove hearty. The build-your-own sandwich option — customers choose from a selection of meats, cheeses and breads — has Dagwood potential. Fancy Pantry doesn't stop there. An array of pasta entrees and customized versions offer other choices. Tons of desserts from turtle fudge brownies to personal Key lime pies allow diners to wrap up in sweet style. Although the lines do move swiftly, the Kennedys give Fancy Pantry mobility with catering and boxed lunch menus, too. 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. $
— Jon Waterhouse
Holy Taco
1314 Glenwood Ave., Atlanta. 404-230-6177.
www.holy-taco.com
With a taqueria-style lunch and dinner menu and a decidedly laid-back vibe, Holy Taco seems a good fit for its East Atlanta Village neighborhood. The winning atmosphere features a spacious patio with a series of light boxes around the perimeter, plantings of flowers, herbs and vegetables, and a pergola equipped with ceiling fans. Inside, the look is chic and spare, with multiple crosses covering the walls. And the L-shaped bar remains a convivial spot for regulars to gather for a drink and a snack. The a la carte menu is centered on tacos, quesadillas and tortas (Mexican sandwiches). Choices include beef brisket, poached chicken, fried fish and grilled shrimp. A chile relleno, fried-up in a delicately crispy coating, oozes a milky cheese filling, surrounded by a tasty tomato coulis. Avocado salad is a fresh melange of greens, pickled red onions, oven roasted tomatoes, and sliced avocados in creamy dressing. Entrees include garlicky, roasted Peruvian-style chicken. The tasty, not too sweet, house margarita is made with Sauza Blanco, organic agave nectar, and fresh lime juice. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Bar open later. $
— Bob Townsend
Krog Bar
112 Krog St. NE, Atlanta. 404-524-1618.
In a city where restaurants are big and bigger, Kevin Rathbun and his team deserve props for thinking small. Their new venture, Krog Bar, measures just 750 square feet and serves a limited menu of mostly cold dishes to complement the smart wine list. This food is well sourced but decidedly no big deal. Nice cheeses, cured meats, finger sandwiches and a few other odds and ends are ideal for cocktail hour or when you're waiting for a table at Rathbun's, just across the courtyard. They're not using the "T" word, but this is as close to a traditional Spanish tapas bar as it gets in this town. 4:30 p.m.-midnight Mondays-Thurdays; 4:30 p.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$
—John Kessler
La Tavola Trattoria
992 Virginia Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-873-5430.
www.latavolatrattoria.com
An evening at La Tavola Trattoria will have you sipping Sartori Amarone Valpolicello and singing along to the rumbling voice of Nat King Cole. Both may lead to romance, reminiscing or a sentimentally sexy combination of the two. In between, chef Craig Richards (who cut his Italian teeth at Lidia in Pittsburgh, part of the dynasty of restaurants from Lidia Bastianich) will offer a candid approach to Italian cooking, with few fervent flourishes, just a lot of honest cooking with a modern touch. Simple charcuterie in the form of speck and prosciutto proffered with a few olives, little more. Items like well-made risotto and beet salad are served simply and with lots of integrity. Coupled with the restaurant's eminent charm, a night out here is full of amore. Dinner: 5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$$
—Meridith Ford
Mona Lisa Restaurant and Pizzeria
8465 Holcomb Bridge Road, Johns Creek. 678-822-6662.
www.monalisapizzarestaurant.com
Mona Lisa knows the perfect balance of casual Italian. It's the kind of place you'd feel equally comfortable buddying up to pizza and an icy beer or a discerning pasta dish and a glass of fine wine. It's pleasant, comfortable and relaxed, but don't underestimate the kitchen. Opt for an impromptu game of movie trivia courtesy of the scores of film dialogue hand painted on Mona Lisa's green wall. Try pegging each line to the appropriate movie. It provides a fun and challenging pre-meal distraction. But all attention goes to the food as it arrives. Fans of shellfish owe it to themselves to experience the dazzling Mussels Fra Diavolo. A fantastic, garlicky tomato sauce with a ting of spice covers a bowl loaded with open-shell mussels. The remarkable sauce is good dunking fodder for the hunks of homemade focaccia. Mona Lisa scores big with its specialty pies, especially the Mona's Garden. This white pizza gets dressed with thin slivers of roasted almonds and smart amounts of mushrooms and spinach. An underlying garlic accent brings a nice tone. Interesting entrees like the Veal Saltimbocca beg for discovery as do a roster of pastas including time-honored tastes like ravioli, linguine and rigatoni. Be it a family free-for-all feast or a romantic, "Lady and the Tramp"-like interlude over noodles and Chianti, Mona Lisa is the kind of multi-purpose Italian you can count on. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 4-9:30 p.m. Sundays. $$
— Jon Waterhouse
Pampas Steakhouse
10970 State Bridge Road, Suite 1, Alpharetta. 678-339-0029.
www.pampassteakhouse.com
Dinner at Pampas Steakhouse isn't just about slicing into a cut of cow. The experience borders on ceremonial. It's the result of devoted and often educational service combined with high-end Argentine cuisine. Despite the rich, dimly-lit, white tablecloth setting, bold artwork and the kitchen's visible crackling fire, it's the service at Pampas that's most striking. The interaction with the waitstaff is akin to formal ritual. The waiter presents a platter of raw beef, each representing a different cut. With friendly authority, he explains each item in definitive detail. As the meat cooks on the oak and charcoal grill, an order of house empanadas, a quartet of traditional Argentine meat pies, arrive. Among the four types is one consisting of corn and cheese that oozes an almost silky, creamy warmth. For a steak headliner, take a shot at the Ladrillo, a 14-ounce filet, which translates to "brick" in English. It comes cooked to spec sporting a dark exterior and red center. Due to the angle of the cut, each slice appears frayed but delectable nonetheless with a juicy consistency and slightly smoky flavor. All sides are a la carte. Consider the thick stalks of grilled asparagus, which are also available steamed or fried. A side of hollandaise sauce adds a satisfying tang. The steak fries are generous in both size and portion with a hint of garlic running throughout. The sauteed mushrooms become a stellar counterpart to Pampas' top tier steaks. The gargantuan portions make dessert a non-issue. But the attentive service continues with informative conversation even after the bill arrives. It's further proof that dinner at Pampas is more event than meal. 5-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11:30-9 p.m. Sundays; 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Sunday brunch. $$$
— Jon Waterhouse
Queen Bee
1655 Mansell Road, Alpharetta. 678-585-7456.
www.queenbeesteaks.com
The owners of the Crabapple Tavern and the Cantina del Mer have gone west, across the Ga. 400 divide, and opened their latest venture, Queen Bee, on Mansell Road. The couple, who also owned the now closed Silos restaurant, took some of the customer favorites from that location and mixed them into a new menu, so diners will find familiar preparations of lamb chops and Chilean sea bass along with pulled pork barbecue sandwiches, baby back ribs, barbecued lamb sandwiches and a smoked prime rib. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$
— H.M. Cauley
Rolling Bones Premium Pit BBQ ![]()
377 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta. 404-222-2324.
www.rollingbonesbbq.com
The days are fading when barbecue joints were, well... joints. Rolling Bones' Edward Hopper-ish setting is the perfect mix of chrome and cute, with an outdoor patio surrounded by overgrown rosemary shrubs. But inside is the real thing: Watch at the counter as the cooks chop up a beef brisket, with plenty of spicy, black surface meat and well-rendered fat, or the meaty spareribs rubbed with a lip-tingling mixture of red and black pepper. Chicken seems downright preternatural — super moist meat and crispy skin. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 12:30-8 p.m. Sundays. $$
—Meridith Ford
Thumbs Up Diner ![]()
573 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta. 404-223-0690.
www.thumbsupdiner.com
No one in Atlanta does the diner gig the way these guys do: The curved counter, the deco block glass in the windows, the intown address, the empty pastry case, the darned good grub. The waitresses are the sweetest on the planet, and they bring food fast and hot. A diverse clientele bridges the gap between locals in search of a good meal that's priced right and the yuppie crowd's cravings for somethin' good to eat in a groovy setting. Breakfast is served throughout the day, with whole wheat biscuits and homemade berry preserves, stone-ground grits and "the Heap" of fried potatoes. The omelets are fluffy but with backbone, cooked to order; the heaping slices of French toast will change your view of religion and possibly politics. Lunch is also worthy, whether you opt for eggs and bacon, a stuffed spud or a chopped salad. Breakfast and lunch: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. $
—Meridith Ford
Twisted Taco
1570 Holcomb Bridge Road, Suite 810, Roswell. 770-407-7014.
www.twistedtaco.com
Twisted Taco, a combination sports bar, late night venue, casual eatery and tequila heaven, opens its first OTP location after five years in Midtown. Tacos take up a huge portion of the menu: Order them stuffed with the traditional fillings — chicken, steak or fish — or go a little wild and get the bestseller: a taco of crispy fried chicken, jack cheese, salsa and jalapeno mayo. Other out-of-the-ordinary ingredients include fried shrimp, crab cakes, teriyaki pork and breaded chicken with marinara sauce. Wash them down with one of more than 100 varieties of tequila, a margarita from the list of 18, one of 10 beers on tap or a cold bottle from the selection of 80 brews. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Bar open later. $
— H.M. Cauley
Vinny's on Windward
5355 Windward Parkway, Alpharetta. 770-772-4644.
www.knowwheretogogh.com/vinnys.html
Restaurant gurus Chris and Michele Sedgwick make it their mission to prove foodie delights reside OTP. But nowhere is it arguably more evident than at Vinny's on Windward, a gratifying and hip exercise in Italian and American fusion. A smart eatery smacks you hard and firm out of the gate, reeling you in with a warm grip. Vinny's deftly does this on the appetizer front. With the fresh pear and arugula salad, a conglomeration of flavors connect in sweet and sour contrast. Thin slices of pear kick back on a bed of arugula. Zesty pecans and the unmistakable tang of goat cheese intermingle with a savory shallot and cherry vinaigrette. The jumbo lump crab cake is enough to have you throw down the fork in submission; it's that divine. An apple-fennel slaw with just the right amount of crispy sweetness crowns the cake. Hearty bits of crab tie together with chive oil and a vanilla-cracked mustard butter. Vinny's is smart enough to offer an entree-size version complete with julienne veggies and peppered linguine. Vinny's lunch and dinner menus proclaim tempting variety (hanger steak, a seared tuna sandwich, roast rack of lamb, a roster of pizzas). But simply go no further than the prosciutto-wrapped shrimp and scallops. Fat and juicy grilled representations of both shrimp and scallops each come twined in crisp prosciutto. A wonderful assortment of grilled veggies (eggplant, zucchini, red peppers, red onions) and mow-you-down parmesan polenta cakes come on the side. No matter how swollen the midsection, don't pass up Vinny's from-scratch sorbet or chocolate mousse. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-10 p.m. Sundays. $$
— Jon Waterhouse
GWINNETT
Buford's Grill
4865 S. Lee St., Buford. 770-945-2420.
Buford's Grill brings in the crowds for its homemade breakfasts, served six days a week, and extras like complimentary banana muffins on Saturday mornings. There's seating at the counter or at tables (which can be pushed together for groups). Its location near downtown Buford and Lake Lanier makes it a good choice for folks heading to either spot on the weekends. For lunch, served Monday-Friday, there's everything from a buffet to hamburgers and hot dogs. The atmosphere is friendly as the wait staff rushes to keep pace, filling orders and drinks. 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 7 a.m.-noon Saturdays. $
— Lori Johnston
Holy Smokes Barbecue
1944 Braselton Highway, Buford. 770-963-0994.
www.holysmokes-bbq.com
Ribs, pulled pork and a standout smoked chicken salad sandwich are favorites at Holy Smokes Barbecue. This Buford barbecue spot's menu also includes untraditional fare like pulled pork tacos, in addition to sandwiches, plates and items by the pint and pound. You can eat in, surrounded by Georgia and Georgia Tech items (along with red and yellow walls), or take out. 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $
— Lori Johnston
Los Arcos Mexican Restaurant
860 Duluth Highway, Suite 210, Lawrenceville. 678-225-0711.
www.losarcosgwinnett.com
The third Los Arcos Mexican Restaurant in metro Atlanta has some of the same favorites as the family's Norcross and Stone Mountain locations, so fans of the restaurant won't be disappointed. Plus, there are a couple of additions to the menu at the Lawrenceville location such as Jose's fajitas, which have steak or chicken with spinach, mushrooms and onions. The fare is fresh at the restaurant, which is visible from Ga. 316. The service is friendly, and the setting is family friendly. There's also a full bar. 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sundays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $
— Lori Johnston
Pickle's Neighborhood Grille
5450 Peachtree Parkway, Suite 7-D, Norcross. 770-447-5997.
Folks are willing wait for the burgers on Texas toast and other grilled sandwiches at Pickle's Neighborhood Grille, located in a Norcross shopping center. The shakes are the perfect accompaniment, too. It's all served in a bustling atmosphere, with reminders that the place doesn't specialize in fast food, but "fresh food." You can dine in at tables or the counter, or take it to go. There's also wireless Internet available. 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays. $
— Lori Johnston
Steverino's
3117 Main St., Duluth. 770-622-2110.
Steverino's, a casual eatery with crispy pizzas and hot subs, joined restaurants, boutiques and other businesses surrounding Duluth's Town Green in April 2008. The relaxed vibe is similar to what former University of Georgia students might remember from Steverino's when it was a popular hangout in Athens. The menu has some of the same items, plus additions including specialty pizzas, salads and a baked apple pizza for dessert. This version caters more to families than hungry college students. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; noon-6 p.m. Sundays. $
— Lori Johnston

