Bella Vita Italian Bistro, described by owner Laurie Attaway as a "high-end date-night" Italian restaurant, is setting a high bar for Buford's first mixed-use development.
The chic eatery, which opened in May, is appealing enough to entice people from other suburbs or visiting Lake Lanier. It's the latest venture for Attaway, who also owns 37 Main and Aqua Terra Bistro in downtown Buford and Third Coast Grille at the lake.
Starters and salads
Warm asiago and parmesan cheese bread, made by Athens-based Big City Bread Cafe, arrives in a wire basket and is served with a dipping sauce of Kalamata olives, sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke hearts. Our first bite is mostly of olives, but after a quick stir, the ingredients blend well together. The nine-item appetizer list has a nice variety, from fried mozzarella to mussels to a cheese plate. The arancini is perfectly done — crispy on the outside, with a creamy texture of risotto, gorgonzola cheese and pieces of prosciutto inside. No complaints about the fried mozzarella, either. They're presented in square white plates and bowls that had us peeking to see what nearby diners had ordered. The portions are big enough that some money-conscious diners are ordering those instead of entrees, Attaway said. The Caesar salad has a mild dressing, crunchy croutons and plenty of fresh parmesan that makes it worth the $7 price tag. The tomato basil soup, which Attaway said is one of the most popular items at Aqua Terra, is OK, but seems to be too much after the marinara-heavy appetizers.Wise decision
Attaway was torn between opening a steakhouse and an Italian place, and the challenge of her choice is trying is appeal to everyone. Al dente means different things to different people, she said, noting that it took her and Chef Brian Legault a month to get the pasta to a degree of doneness they agreed on. The marinara, which has a smoothness that we like compared with more chunky sauces, also is a work in progress, she said.The ricotta manicotti shows off the marinara and fresh pasta, although the cheese appeared to slip off one of our manicotti rolls after leaving the oven and making its way to our table. The perfect bite is when there's the pasta, cheese and a slice of the excellent meatballs.
But the standout dish is Bella Vita's three-cheese crab lasagna with grilled shrimp. The combination of the cheese, pasta and marinara alone makes it some of the best lasagna we've had. Pieces of crab can be found in the dish, although the ricotta seems to overpower the crab in some bites. Even more impressive is the gigantic, well-seasoned shrimp, which steal the show when they could be an afterthought. Grilled asparagus is also on the side.
The entrees and other dishes also are memorable because they lack the overly garlic taste or saturation of oil that sometimes accompanies Italian fare. Chocolate gelato topped with raspberries and strawberries and tiramisu are pleasing ways to end the meal.
Dapper décor
Although families easily dined there during our Thursday night visit, Attaway is hoping to attract a more adult crowd. When the restaurant opened, she was surprised to find so many people with kids in tow. "They put their fettuccine-filled hands all over the $40 [a yard] fabric," she said. Cozy banquettes and candlelit dark wood tables are among the seating options. Sheer window treatments, glowing sconces and hurricanes with cream candles add to the intimate feel (the wait staff worked quickly and without attracting much attention to extinguish a small flame at the table next to us when something got too close to the table's glass square votive). A focal point of the restaurant is a metalwork and infused glass piece on one wall made by local artists from Buford's Tannery Row. There's also an attractive curtained-off area with semi-private dining for 14 people, and a more secluded spot among wine rack that's perfect for parties, with seating for up to 25 people.• Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, noon-10 p.m. Saturdays and Sunday
• Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover, Diner's Club; no checks
• Price range: appetizers, $6-$11; soups and salads, $6-$7; entrees, $15-$26
• Recommended dishes: arancini, fried mozzarella, ricotta manicotti with meatballs, three-cheese crab lasagna
• Web site: www.bellavitabistro.com
• Verdict: An intimate setting and excellent Italian dishes.
