Banners greeting folks walking into Global Mall, a two-story shopping center on Jimmy Carter Boulevard in Norcross near I-85, point the way to Ashiana. It's a meal not to miss.
The lunch buffet showcases some of the restaurant's top dishes. It's a cheap way to fill a craving for Indian fare, and to select favorites to try on a return trip for dinner. Ashiana's banquet hall seats up to 800 people, hosting weddings, parties and frequent groups such as physician dinners.
VEGGIES THEIR WAY
The buffet offers an assortment of appetizers, entrées and desserts that can be found on the menu at any time. Different items pop up on the buffet, and you can also order off the menu for lunch. The deep-fried mixed vegetable pakoras retain their crispiness under the lamps. The charred naan doesn't hold up as well; a separate order stuffed with potato really showcases the clay oven-baked bread. For a different take on the pakora dish, another choice has fritters made of round slices of onion cooked with red chilies and cumin in a creamy yogurt-based sauce. Soothing vegetable dishes include peshawari chole, which has chickpeas simmered with tomatoes and spices. The long-grain basmati rice is perfectly cooked.FLAVORFUL FINDS
The lunchtime feast has an array of spice levels. On the mild side is the delicious red-hued tandoori chicken, which is marinated in yogurt and easy to pull off the bone. Lemons and onions top the chicken tikka masala, another clay oven-baked dish with a butter and tomato sauce. The goat curry is a tender stewlike dish. The chicken kadhai kicks up the heat, thanks to peppers and onions sautéed with the chicken. Items off the regular menu include appetizers such as crispy vegetable corn triangles, a filling selection that has pieces of thick sesame toast stuffed with corn and potatoes and fried. The heat holds off, then hits.Raita, a thin yogurt condiment, and drinks such as smoothie-like lassi, which come in various flavors (we recommend sweet/salty and mango), help cool the palate. Desserts include a warm carrot cake.
BE OUR GUEST
The wait staff is amiable and helpful, with one person stationed at the buffet to guide newcomers through the line. Upbeat Indian music sets the mood, although the day we dined there, the blast of air conditioning made the 60-degree weather seem like it was summertime when we went back outside. As a perk, the restaurant has a frequent diner card: Buy six meals, get the seventh one for free.
• Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays, noon-3:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays; dinner, 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays and Sundays, 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; closed Mondays
• Reservations: Yes
• Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
• Recommended dishes: Mixed vegetable pakoras, crispy vegetable corn triangles, tandoori chicken, peshawari chole, chicken tikka masala, lassi
• Prices: Appetizers, $3.50-$6.95; entrées, $9.95-$14.95; desserts, $3.50
• Verdict: An ideal Indian meal.

