Weekend in Petoskey, Mich., one of three ways: on a budget, spending a bit more, or when the getaway calls for a splurge.
Trip tips: A shopping mecca for more than 100 years, Petoskey's historic gaslight district is lined with 170 independent shops, boutiques, galleries and restaurants. The downtown area is a hub for tourists staying nearby in Bay Harbor, Bay View, Harbor Springs, and Walloon Lake (where author Ernest Hemingway spent his first 22 summers at the family vacation home). The spring season marks morel mushroom season. Nearby Boyne City is host to the 54th annual Morel Festival, May 14-17; http://bcmorelfestival.com.
This charming town is famous for its prehistoric fossilized coral Petoskey stones, a favorite souvenir. Rock hunters should head to the sandy shorelines along Little Traverse Bay at Petoskey State Park (www.michigan.gov/dnr) or at Magnus City Park Beach, within walking distance of downtown (901 W. Lake St.).
Trip planning: www.petoskeyarea.com.
Getting there: The drive from the Traverse City Airport is under two hours. Round-trip fares (nonstop on Delta) from $338 with a 21-day advance purchase; add $60 with a 14-day advance notice.
BUDGET
Stay: Hampton Inn & Suites Petoskey has a hilltop with beautiful views of Little Traverse Bay. Guest amenities include an indoor pool and whirlpool, use of fitness center, complimentary Wi-Fi and a hot breakfast. Rates from $101. 920 Spring St., 231-348-9555, www.hilton.com.
Eat: Established in 1903, Jesperson's Restaurant is famous for its home-style cooking and delicious pies since 1903. It was said to be a favorite hangout of Ernest Hemingway. Sit at the diner lunch counter and savor a slice of its signature flaky crust sour cherry pie. Other favorites are Dutch apple, coconut or banana cream; $4.25. 312 Howard St., 231-347-3601.
Experience: The Little Traverse History Museum is housed in one of the town's two old rail depots. Exhibits feature Ernest Hemingway's life in Michigan, rare Odawa Indian artifacts and historical exhibits of the Little Traverse Bay region; $3. 100 Depot Court, 231-347-2620, www.petoskeymuseum.org.
MODERATE
Stay: The family-owned and -operated Stafford's Bay View Inn is a grand Victorian country inn with five distinct room types. Some feature private sitting areas, fireplace, garden and bay views and tubs for two. Nightly rates range from $99-$329. 2011 Woodland Ave., 1-800-258-1886, www.staffords.com.
Eat: Enjoy restaurants at an affordable price during Petoskey/Bay Harbor Restaurant Week, May 1-8 (and again Oct. 16-23). The best restaurants will offer three-course menus for $25 for dinner and $15 for lunch with some establishments offering two-for-one pricing. http://petoskeyrestaurantweek.com.
Experience: Exposed bluffs and river gorges along the Lake Michigan shoreline pair with the warm breezes off Little Traverse Bay and help create a microclimate where grapes flourish. Stop at Petoskey Farms Vineyard & Winery to take in the pastoral countryside views while tasting the local northern Michigan red wines, white wines and fruit wines. Wine flights under $10. 3720 Atkins Road, 231-290-9463, www.petoskeyfarms.com. The vineyard is a member of the Bay View Wine Trail, area vineyards offering international award-winning wines. http://bayviewwinetrail.com.
SPLURGE
Stay: Find lakeside luxury at the Inn at Bay Harbor, a Renaissance Golf Resort. The resort offers 45 holes of award-winning golf, a full-service spa, and a range of accommodations from guest rooms to cottage-style one-, two- and three-bedroom suites. Rates in a Grand Parlor Studio with a resort view, fireplace and balcony start from $180, including breakfast (select May dates). 3600 Village Harbor Drive, Bay Harbor, 231-439-4000, www.innatbayharbor.com.
Eat: Take in the views of one of Michigan's most beautiful lakes, Walloon Lake, at the Barrel Back Restaurant. Take a seat outside or inside to enjoy dishes prepared on a wood-fired grill, a wood-fired rotisserie smoker or a wood-fired pizza oven. Appetizers and small plates, $7-$14; entrees, $12-$30. Located above Tommy's, a water-skiing and wake-boarding pro shop. At Walloon Lake Village off Highway M-75, 231-535-6000, http://barrel-back.com.
Experience: Fly cast for brook, brown and rainbow trout along the cold, clear and clean rivers at the "tip of the mitt." A half-day fly fishing lesson followed by a trip to the river is $275 for the first person; $85 each additional, up to three people. Float great northern Michigan rivers for steelhead, big brown trout, and other great sport fish; limit two people; $295. Custom lessons and outings available. Harbor Springs, 1-800-871-1780, www.reelwatersmi.com.
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