Weekend in Exeter, England, one of three ways: on a budget, spending a bit more, or when the getaway calls for a splurge.
Trip tips: Exeter is a bustling city in the southwest of England, but then just a few miles into the surrounding area of Devon is the classic English countryside of green fields and narrow hedged roads. The city makes for an ideal base from which to explore the unspoiled beaches along two coastlines and the famous Dartmoor National Park covering 368 miles (www.dartmoor.gov.uk). Plan trips at Visit Devon (www.visitdevon.co.uk) and the Heart of Devon (www.heartofdevon.com). When dialing direct, use the prefix 011 followed by 44 (country code) + phone number shown below.
Getting there: Exeter is about a four-hour drive from London. Round-trip rail tickets from $125. Airfare of $1,327 round-trip are valid on Aug. 23-Oct. 24 travel (10-night minimum stay). Peak summer rates from $1,778. British Airways and Delta offer nonstop service to London.
BUDGET
Stay: Rydon Farm B&B, a working dairy farm, features a restored 16th-century Devon Longhouse with original features such as oak and elm beams and an inglenook fireplace. Four individually decorated guest rooms are named after the local rivers. Double room rates are $62-$78 per person, per night, including a traditional West Country breakfast. Rydon Lane, Woodbury, Exeter, 01395 232341, www.rydonfarmwoodbury.co.uk.
Eat: The Digger's Rest is a 500-year-old traditional thatched village pub with massive walls, beams and a cozy log fireplace. Choose from tarts, sausages, fish and steaks ($7-$20). Located in the center of Woodbury Salterton, a Devon village — a 20-minute drive southeast from Exeter. 01395 232375, http://diggersrest.co.uk.
Experience: Not to be confused with High Tea (dinner), Afternoon Tea ("low tea") is a special time of the late afternoon. Enjoy the 100-year-old tradition at Tea on the Green, located beside the city's Cathedral Green. Overlook the cathedral or outdoors on the cobbled yard. Scones are baked on site, and the jams and clotted cream come from local farms. From 3-5 p.m., order a Cornish Cream Tea with Cheese Scones and a West Country selection of farmhouse cheeses, a mixed salad and coffee ($15.50). 2 Cathedral Close, 01392 276913, www.teaonthegreen.com.
MODERATE
Stay: The Salutation has been an inn since at least 1720 in the town center of Topsham, surrounded by shops and restaurants and a two-minute walk to the waterfront. Airy guest rooms feature sleek bathrooms and handmade mattresses. On site is a glass-roofed atrium cafe. Rates from $210 include breakfast and hot drinks and treats in the lounge. 68 Fore St., 01392 873060, www.salutationtopsham.co.uk.
Eat: The Bank, a contemporary brasserie, offers international dishes inside an extraordinary building, originally a merchant's house over 300 years ago. Lunch selections from $8.50-$15; mains to $29. After you arrive at the train station, it's a short walk across the bridge. Closed Sundays. 62 Boutport St., Barnstaple, 01271 324446, www.62thebank.co.uk.
Experience: Take a day trip on the Tarka rail line from Exeter to the ancient market town of Barnstaple (about one hour, 39 miles). The route follows the river valleys of the Taw and Yeo and the famous green and rolling Devon landscape. There are options to stop in Crediton, a thriving market town with a variety of interesting shops, or at Eggesford followed by a walk into a forest. Round-trip rate tickets from $24. www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk.
SPLURGE
Stay: South View Farm offers luxury lodges tucked beside three beautiful lakes on six acres of landscaped woodland. Each home features a hot tub, log burning stove, modern kitchen and five-star decor and furnishings. Exeter is just 3 miles away; 20 minutes to the south coast and Dartmoor. One-night rates from $410; three nights from $1,070. Shillingford St George, 07889 830948, www.southviewlodges.co.uk.
Eat: The 16th-century Five Bells Inn exudes Devon charm with its thatched roof and steppingstones leading to a beautiful, large beer garden. The inside pub has ancient stone floors and wooden beams. The kitchen is led by a Michelin starred chef. A three-course Sunday lunch features down-to-earth comfort foods, $35. From Exeter (10 miles), reach Five Bells along winding and narrow Devon lanes past fields and forest. Clyst Hydon, Cullompton, 01884 277288, www.fivebells.uk.com.
Experience: Hire a bike to pedal through the city, to the seaside, or hire a kayak to paddle on calm canal waters or on circular trails (two-three hours each loop) along waters that link the River Exe and Exeter Ship Canal (between Exeter Quayside and the Exe Estuary). Bicycle rentals (helmets, locks, tool kits, route maps included) are about $10 for the first hour to $23 for a full day. Tandem or electric bike rentals range from $15-$29. Single and double kayak rentals can be rented for one-four hours or a full day ($15-$70). 4 Kings Wharf, The Quay, Exeter, 01392 424241, www.sadpad.com.
About the Author
