Make an appetizer the main event at this metro Atlanta restaurant

As a frequent traveler out west, I was drawn to the Lazy Dog chain for the mood it captures. A large fireplace, wood beams and a wild game menu give it a timber-lodge feel. What I didn’t expect was to be won over by a Southern staple, the deviled egg. This one could upend a gathering.

The culinary term “deviled” dates to the 1700s, and is used to describe a dish that is highly seasoned. These deviled yolks were spiced with the usual mustard and smoked paprika, and stirred to peak golden creaminess. And, the egg whites had the usual boiled bounciness. What distinguished these eggs was the breading and frying of the whites, as well as the addition of sweet, spicy bacon candy as a garnish.

Each bite was velvety smooth, with umami-laden yolk enveloped by golden brown crispiness, punctuated with brown sugar and a crunchy chile flake kick. Needless to say, I took my entree to go, and ate the whole plate of deviled eggs.