For Super Bowl or Mardi Gras festivities, feed your crowd with Louisiana red beans and rice
Vince Hayward cooks his red kidney beans all day in a slow cooker — sometimes with smoked ham hocks, sometimes with vegan sausage, always “heavy on the bay leaf.” If they aren’t creamy enough by the time he gets home from work, he smashes them with the back of a spoon.
Hayward knows from beans: He's the fourth-generation owner of Louisiana's venerated Camellia bean brand.
Gina Lee takes a different approach with the spicy staple of New Orleans cuisine. She treats the components individually: Red beans simmer in chicken stock. Andouille sausage and tasso ham are sauteed with aromatics in their own skillet. Jasmine rice steams in a cooker.
"I cook the three ingredients separately to save the aroma of the holy trinity," says Lee, general manager of the Garden & Gun Club at The Battery Atlanta. She's referring to the mirepoix of bell pepper, celery and onion known as the Cajun Holy Trinity. Born in Korea and raised in Atlanta, Lee later tended bar at New Orleans' legendary Commander's Palace. She gleaned the art of the bean from spying and eavesdropping on the Commander's cooks. Along the way, she learned that red beans and rice can stir strong emotions in people. She married a man from the Big Easy, and when he gets homesick, she comforts him with his iconic hometown dish.
According to New Orleans lore, red beans and rice became a Monday night tradition centuries ago, because Monday was laundry day. While the clothes were washed and wrung by hand, a pot of beans seasoned with leftover Sunday ham could simmer for hours. In 1923, Hayward’s grandfather came up with the nifty idea of packaging red kidney beans in individual bags, thereby fueling the Monday night tradition. “We pushed ‘em hard,” Hayward says.
The bean king says there’s no correct way to create the dish his family helped popularize. “That’s one of the cool things about the dish of red beans and rice,” he says. “There’s a million variations, and none of them are wrong.”
Until recently, I'd never thought much about the dish, probably because I had never had a memorable version. That changed when I encountered Emily Shaya's recipe last year while I was working on a profile of her husband, Alon, the Israeli-born, James Beard Award-winning New Orleans chef. Shaya wisely leaves the bean cookery to his Georgia-born wife. One Monday last winter, I realized I had the ingredients for Emily's recipe, and after cooking the beans for about six hours — that's three loads of clothes, if you will — I finally understood the essence of the dish.
Unlike all the chunky, chili-like impostors I had dismissed in the past, Emily's concoction was a thick, smoky gravy, rich with fat from bacon, ham hock and andouille. Ladled over her buttery, onion-flecked jasmine rice, it was magic. You can find Emily's recipe with a mere flick of the Google; it's been published far and wide.
For this article, Lee was kind enough to share her thoughtfully considered recipe. (I confess I added a smoked hock to the simmering beans and cooked the dish longer than she would, probably, but I could still taste the trinity!) Hayward, for his part, sent me a recipe he recently developed for a vegan kettle of beans. He’s a fan of Field Roast Mexican Chipotle sausage, made with grain. I found it at my neighborhood Publix.
If you’re putting together a Super Bowl party or a Mardi Gras feast, do like I did, and make a pot of vegan and a vat of meat-based. Fix Emily Shaya’s rice. Braise you some Slow-Cooker Collards (a first for this Southern boy — and a genius idea) and a bowl of Splattered and Smashed Potato Salad. Call all your friends. Tell one to make cornbread and another to bring a gallon of tea or a cooler of beer.
All these recipes can be made ahead of time. The red beans and rice improve if you let the flavors mingle. “ALWAYS better after sitting a day or two!” Hayward roared via email.
His family didn’t invent red beans and rice. They just made them a New Orleans staple.
RECIPES
Red beans and rice are a great way to feed a crowd. Here we offer a meat-based and a plant-based version of the Louisiana classic and two classic Southern sides. All can be prepared in advance. Serve with your favorite cornbread.
Gina Lee’s Red Beans and Rice
Bryan Lewis, director of operations for the Garden & Gun Club, told me his colleague Gina Lee used to live in New Orleans and that she cooked a mean pot of beans. He was right. Lee turned me on to Cajun Meat Co. in Marietta (cajunmeatcompany.com), a great source for andouille, tasso, Tony Chachere's seasoning, Camellia beans and many other Louisiana products.
- 16 ounces red kidney beans, soaked overnight
- 9 cups stock (chicken or vegetable)
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 16 ounces andouille sausage, sliced
- 1 tablespoon black pepper
- 8 ounces tasso ham, diced
- 1 cup celery, diced
- 1½ cups green bell pepper, diced
- 2 cups onion, diced
- 2 tablespoons garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning (Lee uses Tony Chachere’s)
- 1/2 teaspoon white vinegar or Tabasco
- Cooked white rice
- 1/2 cup scallions, sliced thin
- Rinse and drain the beans. Place in a large stockpot with 5 cups of stock. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; then turn heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until beans are tender. Mash about half of the beans with a potato masher. Add 2 more cups of stock, and continue cooking for two hours, stirring occasionally to keep beans from sticking. Add water if necessary.
- Meanwhile, place olive oil, andouille and black pepper in a large saute pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Stir to coat, and saute until sausage is brown, about 3-5 minutes. Add tasso, celery, bell pepper, onion and garlic. Cook until the onions are translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Remove from heat.
- When the beans are quite tender, add the sausage and vegetables, plus pan drippings, to the stockpot. Add remaining 2 cups of stock, and cook about 30 minutes. (For creamier beans, you may continue cooking; just be sure to stir regularly and add more water as needed.)
- When almost ready to serve, add 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning. Taste and adjust seasonings. (Because the andouille and tasso are heavily seasoned, you shouldn’t need much more salt.) Simmer for an additional 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add 1/2 teaspoon of plain white vinegar or Tabasco sauce if you like a little heat.
- Serve with rice and top with sliced scallions. Serves 8-10.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving, based on 8, with 1 cup cooked white rice per serving: 793 calories (percent of calories from fat, 34), 31 grams protein, 97 grams carbohydrates, 11 grams fiber, 29 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 55 milligrams cholesterol, 1,086 milligrams sodium.
Vince’s Easy Vegan Red Beans and Rice
Vince Hayward is the CEO of L.H. Hayward & Company, which has been selling beans since 1923. He often cooks his red kidney beans in a slow cooker, but this recipe uses a conventional stovetop method. If you don’t feel like chopping bell pepper, celery, onions and garlic, you can revert to Hayward’s original instructions: Buy a package of pre-chopped Cajun-style veggies — look for labels like Zydeco Chop Chop and Guidry’s Fresh Cuts — and use 8 ounces.
- 1 (16-ounce) dry red kidney beans, preferably Camellia brand
- 2 tablespoons olive oil or other vegetable oil, divided
- About 12 ounces spicy vegan sausage, sliced (Hayward uses a four-pack of Field Roast Spicy Chipotle Vegan Sausage, which is 12.95 ounces)
- 1 cup chopped bell pepper
- 1 cup chopped onion
- 1 cup chopped celery
- 1 cup scallions, sliced, plus more for (optional) garnish
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 5 bay leaves
- 2 teaspoons dried thyme
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning such as Tony Chachere’s
- 1/2 tablespoon hot sauce
- 2 teaspoons liquid smoke
- 1 (32-ounce) container vegetable broth
- Water as needed
- Salt to taste
- Cooked rice
- Soak beans overnight. Drain and rinse with fresh water. Set aside.
- Coat the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed stock with 1/2 tablespoon oil. Add sausage, and cook over medium-high heat until it begins to char, about 5-7 minutes. Add to the pan: the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil, bell pepper, onion, celery, 1 cup of scallions, and garlic. Cook until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add bay leaves, thyme, smoked paprika and Creole seasoning. Stir well to coat, and cook to the toast the spices, about 3 minutes. Stir in beans.
- Add hot sauce, liquid smoke, vegetable broth and 2 cups water. (Note: You may fill empty broth container with water, shake and use as needed.) Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer, adding water as needed every 20 to 30 minutes. Be sure to stir often to keep beans from sticking. After about 90 minutes, mash about 1/3 of the beans using a large spoon or potato masher. This will help create a thick creamy consistency. Continue cooking for 2 to 4 hours. Be sure to stir regularly from the bottom, and make sure to add water if needed.
- Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve over cooked white rice. Garnish with sliced scallions if using. Serves 8-10.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving, based on 8, with 1 cup cooked white rice per serving: 602 calories (percent of calories from fat, 18), 27 grams protein, 97 grams carbohydrates, 18 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (2 grams saturated), trace cholesterol, 516 milligrams sodium.
Emily Shaya’s Rice
A Georgia native and longtime New Orleans resident, Emily Shaya makes some of the best red beans and rice around. One secret of her success is that the rice isn’t an afterthought. Shaya’s recipe calls for plenty of butter and onion and one fragrant bay leaf. It’s our go-to for making the most luscious Monday night red beans and rice.
- 1/4 cup canola oil
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 2 cups jasmine rice
- 3 cups chicken broth or water
- Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high. Add onion, butter, bay leaf and salt, and cook, stirring often, until onions are soft and translucent, about 6 minutes.
- Add rice, and stir well. Stir in water (or chicken broth), and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and cook 15 minutes.
- Remove pan from heat, and let stand 5 minutes covered. Fluff rice with a fork. Serves 10-12.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving, based on 10: 237 calories (percent of calories from fat, 40), 6 grams protein, 31 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 11 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 12 milligrams cholesterol, 391 milligrams sodium.
Splashed and Smashed Potato Salad
Potatoes are easy to over-boil. So for generations, many people have served up unintentionally mushy potato salad. However, some people — me, for example — like that texture. Now comes America’s Test Kitchen, with a technique that replicates the creaminess by smashing part of the boiled potatoes and mixing them with a mayo-based dressing perked up with mustard and cayenne. Splashing the still-hot boiled potatoes with white vinegar locks in flavor. This is basically Southern-style potato salad, executed with a smart trick or two, and it is excellent.
- 3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for cooking potatoes
- 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar, divided
- 1 cup mayonnaise
- 3 tablespoons yellow mustard
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 3 boiled eggs, sliced and smashed well with a fork
- 3 scallions, sliced thin
- 1/2 cup chopped sweet pickles (may use dill)
- 1/2 cup finely chopped celery
- 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
- Paprika for sprinkling (optional)
- Combine potatoes, 8 cups water and 1 tablespoon salt in a Dutch oven. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook at a vigorous simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
- Drain potatoes. Transfer 3 cups potatoes to a large bowl, add 1 tablespoon vinegar, and coarsely mash with potato masher. Transfer remaining potatoes to a rimmed backing sheet, drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar, and gently toss to combine. Let cool completely, about 15 minutes.
- In a small bowl, whisk mayonnaise, 1/4 cup water, mustard, black pepper, cayenne pepper and the 1 teaspoon salt. Add eggs, scallions, pickles, celery, onion and remaining potatoes; stir gently but well. (The mixture will be lumpy.)
- Cover and refrigerate until fully chilled, about 2 hours. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (You may not need any.) Sprinkle with paprika if desired. Serves 8-10.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving, based on 8: 397 calories (percent of calories from fat, 56), 7 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 26 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 89 milligrams cholesterol, 630 milligrams sodium.Adapted from “The Side Dish Bible” by America’s Test Kitchen ($35).
Slow-Cooker Collards
To get properly tender Southern collards, you must simmer them for hours. America’s Test Kitchen achieves similar results using a slow cooker. You may cook the greens overnight and keep warm in the slow cooker until you’re ready to serve them, straight from the pot if you like, and with your favorite cornbread.
- Vegetable oil spray
- 1 onion, chopped fine
- 6 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 2 pounds collard greens, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
- 4 cups chicken broth
- 1 smoked ham hock, rinsed
- 2 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more for seasoning
- Hot sauce
- Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Place onion, garlic, oil, salt and pepper flakes in a small bowl. Microwave until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer to slow cooker. Stir in collard greens and broth. Nestle ham hock into the slow cooker. (If all the greens won’t fit, use half; cook for about 30 minute to 1 hour to wilt; then stir in remaining greens.) Cover and cook until collards are very tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high. (If cooking on high heat, be sure to stir occasionally to keep greens at the top of the pot from drying out. Add water if necessary.)
- Transfer ham hock to cutting board. Let cool slightly, then shred ham into bite-size pieces, discarding fat, skin and bones. Stir ham and vinegar into the greens. Season with salt, pepper and more vinegar to taste. Serve with hot sauce. Collards can be set on warm or low setting and served straight out of the pot. Serves 6-8.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving, based on 6: 192 calories (percent of calories from fat, 45), 20 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 40 milligrams cholesterol, 395 milligrams sodium.Adapted from “The Side Dish Bible” by America’s Test Kitchen ($35).
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