First Look: Sugar Shack in the Back, Roswell

Pioneering Roswell chef Andy Badgett has helmed an assortment of restaurants around the Canton Street corridor — turning fine dining Asher into the popular Fickle Pickle cafe, and opening and closing Southern-inspired Relish and budget-Mexican Pico Autentico in the same spot on Mimosa Boulevard. Last week, Badgett debuted Sugar Shack in the Back, a bakery/coffee bar that stands as his most casual concept to date.

The look: As the name implies, Sugar Shack is located in a barn-like building directly behind Fickle Pickle, sharing a gravel parking lot, and a secluded courtyard with umbrella tables. Inside, the bright, tidy space showcases the business side of the bakery, with a curve of display cases and order counters surrounding mixers, ovens and coffee makers. A couple of cafe tables offer the only seats.

The scene: One recent morning, Badgett was on the scene along with Carmen Brady, the Fickle Pickle’s baker for the past six years, as a steady stream of curious neighborhood customers dropped by to grab a late breakfast or some pastries and coffee to go.

The food: So far, Badgett’s fluffy, square biscuit sandwiches ($2.75-$4.25), loaded with the likes of bacon, egg, pimento cheese and pepper jelly, seem to be the breakfast favorite. But Brady also makes savory stuffed “bagel bombs” and individual quiches. On the sweeter side ($1.75-$3), scones, pastries, cinnamon rolls, glazed beignets, muffins, cookies, cupcakes, fruit tarts and individual cheesecakes are the temptations. And you can up the ante with cookie ice cream sandwiches and cupcake sundaes ($3.40).

The Drinks: Hot or iced coffee drinks range from the blend or decaf of the day ($2) to chai, vanilla, caramel and mocha latte ($4). There’s also house or black iced tea ($2.50/$3).

The extras: Of course, the contiguous spaces and similar hours mean you can easily go to Fickle Pickle for a cheeseburger and a beer, and stop in at Sugar Shack for dessert afterward.

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