From the archives: Deviled egg recipe from 102 years ago
Deviled eggs are always served as an appetizer in our family’s Thanksgiving spread. It made me wonder if the dish is common on Atlanta holiday tables or if it was just popular with my own family from upstate New York. I asked a fellow Georgia resident if her annual 80-person Thanksgiving dinner includes deviled eggs. She said that it is a must-have dish for her extremely large family gathering, and the one dish demolished quicker than any other offering on the table.
After going through The Atlanta Journal newspaper archives, I came upon this deviled egg recipe from 1924, the oldest recipe we’ve covered so far, featured in “Mrs. Dull’s Cooking Department.”
Egg prices then and now
While we’ve experienced the occasional “egg-flation” on and off in the past few years, eggs have remained relatively affordable in comparison to the cost of high-protein items such as meat. During the 1920s, eggs were extremely affordable, averaging 36 cents a carton.
Currently, they range from $1.60 to $9.69 a dozen, with a wide variety of options like conventional (the most affordable), to cage-free, pasture-raised and organic, among other types.
When did deviled eggs grow in popularity?
Deviled eggs appeared as early as the 13th century in ancient Rome, and have shown up on American tables since the late 1800s. They grew in popularity from the 1920s-40s, showing up at many church picnics and parties, around the same time commercialized mayo became widely available.
But before prepared mayonnaise was used, another ingredient took its place.
Before mayo, bacon grease was used in deviled eggs
The original 1924 deviled egg recipe in The Atlanta Journal combined bacon grease with the egg yolks, as was common for the time. The bacon grease added a smooth texture and smoky flavor to the eggs.
Why are they called “deviled” eggs?
The term “deviled” was associated with anything spicy or seasoned, and a dusting of cayenne or paprika put these eggs in that category.
The original recipe’s name was quite different because many people wanted to avoid associating them with the devil. When served at church functions, they were frequently called “stuffed eggs” as an alternative.
How to effortlessly remove the shells from the egg
First, use old eggs. Older eggs that have sat in the fridge for at least a week are easier to peel because they release from their membranes more easily.
When boiling the eggs, add them directly to the boiling water rather than letting the eggs come to a boil in the pot of water. The extreme change in temperature lets the egg white separate from the membrane more easily.
When they are finished boiling, immediately put the eggs in an ice bath. Then gently roll each egg back and forth in the icy water to crack the shell, and peel them in the cold water.
Debate the best mayo for your deviled eggs this Thanksgiving
Since I’m a Northern transplant, I’m team Hellmann’s; Duke’s has no place at my table. Feel free to debate this at your upcoming Thanksgiving dinner, as mayo brands are usually a hot topic!
Deviled Eggs (originally called “Stuffed Eggs”)
If you don’t have mayonnaise on hand, the residual bacon grease called for in the original recipe can be used in a pinch. This adapted recipe replaces the bacon grease with mayo.
Makes 12 egg halves
Ingredients:
- 6 eggs
- 2 strips of bacon
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- 2 tablespoons chopped pickle
- 1 teaspoon prepared mustard
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Paprika (optional)
Instructions:
- Boil eggs about 10 to 12 minutes. When done, plunge into cold water with ice cubes. Crack each egg so it peels smoothly and easily. Peel and cut into halves lengthwise. Mash yolks with a fork.
- Heat a skillet and cook bacon until very crisp. Let cool, then mince finely. Add mayonnaise, bacon, pickle and mustard to yolks and mix until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon yolk mixture into the whites. If using, sprinkle paprika on top before serving.
Adapted from a recipe in “Mrs. Dull’s Cooking Department” column for The Atlanta Journal, June 15, 1924