10 restaurant dishes around Atlanta that make the most of peak-season squash

September in Georgia marks a sweet threshold for tender summer squashes. Two-tone Zephyr zucchini, crookneck and pattypan squash share market tables with the first heavy-bottomed heirloom winter varieties, like the prized North Georgia Candy Roaster.

Whether roasted until soft and caramelized, pureed or peeled in fresh veggie ribbons, September’s abundant harvest offers the ultimate bridge between late-summer sun and early-autumn comfort. Here’s how 10 local restaurants celebrate the season.

Harvest plate at the Deer and the Dove

This offers the season’s best distilled onto one plate. Squash takes the lead two ways, with roasted Hickory Hill Farm’s Zephyr squash in “steak” form and a silky squash-miso cream, layered with Anson Mills’ farro verde and blistered Woodland Gardens lunchbox peppers. A watermelon vinegar gel cuts through with acid, while rooftop herbs and shaved Parmesan cheese finish it with an herbal, savory lift.

155 Sycamore St., Decatur. 404-748-4617, deerdove.com

Chef Demetrius Brown brings a northern African touch to summer squash at Bread & Butterfly in the Inman Quarter development. (Courtesy of Cam McMinn)

Summer squash at Bread & Butterfly

Bread & Butterfly offers tender grill-charred planks of yellow squash and Hickory Hill Farm’s zephyr zucchini, piled over a smooth base of labneh, with dustings of aromatic and earthy za’atar and the citrus punch of tagine elevating late summer’s abundant crop. Chef Demetrius Brown spritzes fresh lemon for a brightening touch.

290 Elizabeth St. NE, Atlanta. 678-515-4536, bread-and-butterfly.com

Stuffed squash blossoms are as much the star as the Hudson Valley duck on this delish dish at Midtown's Lazy Betty. (Courtesy of Matt Wong)

Hudson Valley duck at Lazy Betty

Executive chef Ron Hsu showcases squash in full seasonal bloom, pairing lavender-scented duck with a blossom stuffed with house-made duck sausage, slow-confited in duck fat. The dish is anchored by a rich summer ragu featuring hand-scooped pearls of heirloom yellow and green zucchini, pickled caper blossoms and foraged button chanterelles simmered in duck jus. When baby zucchini come attached to the blossoms, they are scored, seared and added to the plate, giving the dish an extra layer of caramelized, field-fresh crunch.

999 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 470-851-1199, lazybettyatl.com

Chicken paillard with squash and zucchini that eats like a flatbread at Sargent in Old Fourth Ward. (Angela Hansberger for the AJC)

Chicken paillard at Sargent

Pounded almost tortilla-thin, a tender chicken breast is seared and draped with delicate ribbons of fresh summer squash and zucchini. A bright, savory piperade adds a pop of sweet pepper and acidic tomato balance, while shavings of pecorino bring a sharp, salty finish to this fresh, light and elevated plate.

405 N. Angier Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-855-5549, sargent-atlanta.com

Golden stuffed zucchini blossoms filled with cheeses at Amalfi Cucina + Mercato. (Courtesy of Zachary Bobo)

Blossom fritti at Amalfi Cucina + Mercato

Tender zucchini blossoms stuffed with a creamy blend of mozzarella and Parmesan cheese are flash-fried in a delicate, tempura-style batter until golden at Amalfi in the 207 Peachtree development in downtown Atlanta. They remain crisp on the outside with a velvety, melted center, each bite finished with a bright house-made pesto.

17 Andrew Young International Blvd., Atlanta. 404-882-1740, amalfiatl.com

An early classic at Avondale's Last Dance: the smash salad. (Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Smash salad at Last Dance

Like a Southern version of a Thai som tum, this vibrant smash salad pounds together crisp summer squash, sweet cantaloupe, crunchy bok choy, cabbage and fresh tomatoes. Tossed in a bright, green herb sauce spiked with punchy golden datil peppers, it hits every taste bud note. It’s already a menu staple and customized to your heat preference, from a gentle warm-up to full-on fiery.

124 N. Avondale Rd., Avondale Estates. 404-975-3537, lastdanceatl.com

Local summer zucchini and ricotta tango on top of Indaco's wood-fired pizza. (Courtesy of Indaco)

Zucchini pizza at Indaco

Round slivers of local summer zucchini blanket this seasonal wood-fired pie, paired with dollops of creamy ricotta and rich, deeply concentrated tomato estratto. Sweet red onion and dried oregano balance the tart tomato base, while a scatter of crushed pistachios delivers a nutty crunch to every bite.

725 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-205-5183, indacorestaurant.com

The taste of a Southern summer wrapped in pasta at Inman Park's BoccaLupo. (Angela Hansberger for the AJC)

Summer squash stuffed pasta at BoccaLupo

House-made, delicate parcels of pasta are stuffed with tender summer squash, tasting nostalgically like a Southern squash casserole, all wrapped into a single bite. Paired with morsels of fresh red snapper and Habanada chile pepper passata, the pasta rests in a velvety sauce with a glossy drizzle of herb oil and a flurry of fresh herbs.

753 Edgewood Ave. NE, 404-577-2332, boccalupoatl.com

Roasted kabocha squash salad with savory trout skin spice at Summerhill’s Little Bear. (Angela Hansberger for the AJC)

Kabocha squash salad at Little Bear

Known for clever, unexpected pairings, Little Bear celebrates squash in a striking salad of roasted kabocha tossed in a punchy garlic dressing. Packed with contrasting textures, the dish layers preserved Georgia grapefruit, dehydrated blueberries, fresh mint and pickled red onions, all elevated by a salty-savory kick of house-made trout skin spice.