Sushi Huku, a pioneering Japanese restaurant in northwest Atlanta, had been around for decades when Jey Oh took it over several years ago. A dedicated and conscientious student of his craft, Oh brought a modern sensibility to his work, and soon enough his bar began to attract the city’s coterie of sushi freaks.
For his second act, Oh has come further intown, perhaps a bit closer to his core audience. Craft Izakaya, now open in the Krog Street Market, gives Oh a new stage in the form of a sushi bar behind which you will find him most evenings. But this restaurant, with its expansive dining room and upstairs loggia, tries to be something else, as well. After several visits, I find myself of two minds on Craft Izakaya. In a flash, it has become the best sushi bar on the east side of town. You want Oh and Co. to select your uni, cut your hamachi and to hand form your nigiri. But I don't totally buy the izakaya side of things. Some of the efforts are good, but taken as a whole this kitchen doesn't offer the scope or lightness of touch that can make an izakaya meal the best drunk food ever. For your first visit, you might order a combination plate of 12 slices of fish and 7 pieces of nigiri, then take turns choosing the choicest bits of yellowtail, amberjack, mackerel and squid. Oh doesn't skimp on the good stuff. For your second visit, you should just get a couple of izakaya plates then proceed directly to an omakase (chef's choice) of sushi. This strategy resulted in by far the most pleasurable meal I've had at Craft. Read more.
Craft Izakaya: 99 Krog St., Atlanta, 30307. craftizakaya.com Rating: 2 of 4 stars (very good)
