Magic in the air, if not the crust

CAMPANIA

800 N. Main St., Alpharetta. www.campaniaga.com.

[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to the neighborhood, and the food is consistent. $$-$$$

At Campania, the year-old Neapolitan pizzeria in Alpharetta, the imported custom-made oven is the restaurant’s main draw and takes center stage. It produces thin, wet pizzas dotted with blistered dough bubbles that will feed your pizza lust.

You might or might not notice that they are missing a moment of magic. But that shouldn’t stop you from experiencing one, if only for the wood-charred crust. It may just be a matter of sniffing out the right set of toppings.

You’ll also discover that there’s more here worth trying than just what’s kissed by the oven. For me, the perfect meal is a salumi plate ($12) paired with a simple verde salad ($7), its magnificent piling of arugula expertly dressed with a pop of lemon and extra-virgin olive oil. Servings are large, so plan to share and chat while you nibble olives and pick over meaty stacks of prosciutto di Parma, spicy Calabrese salami and Parma Cotto. That, plus a triangle or two of the rosetta (pizza dough bread, $4) and I’m golden.