Fare memorable if still a work in progress

At Ford Fry’s new St. Cecilia, the bright and breezy two-story space mimics the delicate flavors of the light, coastal European fare. Simple dishes like herb-scented swordfish and fresh pastas like the spring ravioli come from this kitchen.

The fare is still a work in progress, as the kitchen strives to identify its most successful dishes and keep up with the demands of an ambitious 160-seat dining room. But that doesn’t stop the Buckhead business lunchers and evening trendsetters from snagging every available perch. St. Cecilia is where you’ll find Atlanta.

The hearth-roasted octopus is fast becoming the restaurant’s signature dish, its meaty interior juxtaposed with crispy charred tentacles. But the new menu brings another competitor for top spot: the spring ravioli. Green nettle-infused pasta comes stuffed with a smooth mascarpone and spring pea mixture.

To end your meal, the warm ricotta doughnuts may satisfy your sweet tooth. But I’d recommend exploring the coffee cocktails instead. Try the carajillo, a shot of espresso mixed with rum presented in a short glass encrusted in a cascade of lemon zest and sugar.