During a recent weeknight visit to White Elephant Thai Restaurant in East Point, there was a moment that evoked some of the experiences of a Chinatown dining devotee, writer Calvin Trillin, who has been known to carry a card with the Chinese phrase, "Bring me what they're having at the next table."
But in this case, what they were having at a long table in back wasn't on the menu. Several young servers and kitchen staff were huddled around some sort of hot pot, dipping into platters of thinly sliced beef and piles of fresh herbs. And judging from the smiles and jovial banter, the family meal they shared was making them much happier than our food was making us.
BLACK/WHITE WORLD
The sister restaurant to Wasabi, the hip sushi spot in Castleberry Hill, White Elephant brings a happening vibe to the evolving East Point dining scene. Appropriately, the stylish but cozy space is painted white from the walls to the rafters and ceiling. Contrasting splashes of black show up on the laminated tables, contemporary chairs, and wall art. The front windows are accented with narrow boxes filled with lucky bamboo plants. Adding to the night life ambiance of the place, there's a glossy-sleek, L-shaped bar. And the compact, awning-covered front patio makes a pleasant spot to dine when the evening sun is going down and the traffic on East Point Street has quieted.
THAI FAVORITES
The menu features all the familiar Thai favorites — spring rolls, chicken satay, traditional salads and soups, curry, noodle and seafood dishes — with very few surprises. But the cooking can be wildly uneven. Basil rolls appear made to order, with a generous amount of green veggies and herbs, rice noodles and a bit of shrimp. But the steamed rice paper wrappers are too dense and gummy. Nam sod salad arrives in a big bowl, heaped with crunchy blend of romaine lettuce, slivered ginger and red onion, and peanuts, topped with tender minced pork and a spicy-tangy lime dressing. An order of basil stir-fry is similarly studded with fresh ingredients, including crisp green beans and bell peppers and black pepper pods. Unfortunately, the sauce is soupy and the chicken is a tad rubbery. The spicy catfish is the biggest disappointment, though — mostly because it's served in soggy nuggets, with more breading than fish, but also because the sauce is cloyingly sweet. Other entrees to explore (maybe with some better results) include duck curry, basil seafood and red snapper. At lunch, stir-fry, curry and noodle dishes run $8-$10.
COCKTAIL TIME
Maybe the best way to enjoy White Elephant is seated at the bar in the care of one of the friendly servers, while munching on a salad and sipping a draft beer. As for other drinks, there's a basic wine list, an assortment of sake and nectar bellinis, and a sake bomb made with Sapporo.
• Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Sundays; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Sundays
• Credit cards: All major
• Prices: Appetizers, $4-$7; soups and salads, $4-$9; entrees, $8-$17
• Reservations: No
• Recommended dishes: Thai salads, stir fry
• Parking: Lot and street parking.
• Wheelchair access: Yes
• Smoking policy: No smoking
• Noise level: Moderate
• Takeout: Yes
• Web site: www.whiteelephantatl.com
• Verdict: A hip new Asian addition to the East Point dining scene, but the food can be hit-or-miss.
