If anchovies gross you out, know this — compared to what people ate before there were anchovies, they’re practically cake and ice cream.
Because until about the 16th century there were no anchovies as we know them today. That is, small silvery fish that are boned, salt cured and packed in oil.
Instead, there was garum — the juice of salted and fermented fish guts. Garum lost favor about 500 years ago when people learned how to make anchovies.
Anchovies, however, are not a singular fish. Most cuisines around the world have their own “anchovy,” most of which tend to be variants of one variety of fish, a relative of the herring.
But given the ick-factor some people associated with anchovies, why eat them? Easy. They are flavor bombs that lend serious “wow” to whatever they are added to. And the flavor they add isn’t even a little fishy.
Here’s why. After months of salt curing, the dominant flavors in anchovies are from enzymes and good bacteria, not the flesh itself (of which there is little). The result is an intense blend of fatty, salty, savory, meaty, even a bit cheesy.
Even better, when you cook anchovies they dissolve, leaving behind a massive savory flavor but no evidence that any fish were harmed in the making.
Anchovies are widely used in the cuisines of Spain, Portugal, Italy and France. In Turkey they are so prized they have inspired volumes of poetry, even folk dances. That is some serious anchovy love.
Even if you don’t like them on pizzas, chances are you’ve eaten plenty of anchovies; they are critical for Caesar salad and olive tapenade.
You’ll generally find anchovies alongside the Italian foods or with the tuna. Most varieties are packed in oil in cans or jars. Some delis also sell salt-packed anchovies, but these sometimes need to be boned and always should be rinsed.
Many grocers also sell anchovy paste, which is ground anchovies blended with oil and sometimes seasonings. The pastes are fine in a pinch, but whole anchovies tend to have better flavor. Unopened cans can be stored at room temperature for a year; opened cans can be refrigerated for a week or two.
Try anchovies in this recipe for flatbread pizza brushed with anchovy oil.
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Flatbread Pizza With Anchovy Oil
Hands on: 15 minutes Total time: 25 minutes Serves: 4
Keep this pizza simple in order to let the anchovy oil really shine. But if you prefer a heavy-duty pizza, by all means pile on the toppings. Don’t want to make your own flatbread? Use the same anchovy oil and toppings on a ball of pizza dough from the grocer.
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/4 cup warm water
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Pinch red pepper flakes
2 cups baby spinach
1 cup sliced white button mushrooms
2 cups shredded fontina or other semisoft cheese
Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Spray 2 baking sheets with olive oil cooking spray.
In a food processor, combine flour and salt, then pulse to combine. With the processor running, add 1 tablespoon olive oil, then slowly drizzle in the water until the dough forms a tacky, but not wet ball. If the dough is too dry, add water 1 teaspoon at a time and pulse until it holds together easily when squeezed.
Transfer dough to a lightly floured counter. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces. Using a floured rolling pin, roll each piece to the size of a large dinner plate.
Place 2 flatbreads on each baking sheet and set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, anchovies, garlic and red pepper flakes. Mash with a fork until chunky smooth.
Use a pastry brush to coat each flatbread with the oil-anchovy paste, then top each with a quarter each of the spinach and mushrooms.
Finish each pizza with 1/2 cup cheese. Bake for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned at the edges and the cheese is melted.
Per serving: 430 calories (percent of calories from fat, 58), 19 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 28 grams fat (12 grams saturated), 65 milligrams cholesterol, 770 milligrams sodium.
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