The BookHouse Pub is a cool place. That's not so surprising, given that the new bar and restaurant was conceived by the crew from MJQ Concourse and Drunken Unicorn, located just a few doors down on Ponce.
But while those twin underground dance and rock clubs (literally nestled under a parking lot) are minimalist to the point of cold concrete discomfort, the BookHouse proves that cushy can be hip, too. And though there are still kinks to be worked out in the food and service, chef Julia LeRoy's entertaining gastropub menu, coupled with a very good beer list, is already keeping the cozy space crowded nearly every night.
Wrapped in stone
The pub takes its name from the meeting place of a fictional secret society, the Bookhouse Boys, featured in David Lynch's "Twin Peaks" television series.In keeping with that, the rough strip center facade has been transformed with stone, timbers and art glass windows that picture Northwestern totems. The front door is a weighty medieval thing, with a lodge-like rectangular peephole. Inside, the combo bar and dining room is surrounded by burnished brown wood paneling, carved gargoyle-looking totem figures, bookshelves, and dangling lights. Stacked stone columns and a small hearth divide the open areas among booths and tables.
Overall, the place feels like a cross between a country tavern and a library — though quiet it's not, as music and talk create a lively cacophony. In back, a terraced patio covered with strings of Chinese lanterns is another inviting, sub-rosa sort of environment, and a smokers' retreat.
Bistro pub
As fun as it is to hang out and have a drink, it seems most people come to the BookHouse (especially at dinner time) to sample LeRoy's cooking, which plays around the edges of pub grub and bistro fare. Many starters, such as chicken wings, fried pickles and kettle chips are straightforward bar snacks. But then there are dishes like collard green egg rolls, flavored with smoky bacon and served with fish sauce; or flavorful duck confit, delicately mounded on a limp, pumpkin puree-slathered corn pancake.More substantial everyday offerings include a hefty burger, a sweet potato and spinach wrap, roast chicken, and a hanger steak. A printed specials menu lists the soup of the day (recently it was a hearty, meat-only "cowboy chili") and several appetizers and entrees. One night, thin pimento cheese and white bread finger sandwiches weren't quite zippy enough. But another special, a juicy roast pork loin with spicy housemade apple walnut sausage and bitter braised greens, proved much more pleasing.
Desserts are fun stuff: a deep-fried funnel cake comes covered in powdered sugar and topped with cinnamon ice cream; a "car bomb" float is made with Jameson syrup and a scoop of Bailey's ice cream dropped in a pint of Mackeson's stout.
Beer here
Don't come to the BookHouse looking for fancy cocktails or much in the way of wine. Beer is what's happening here. Among the 18 taps, you'll find lots of Belgian and American craft beers, including the likes of Saison Dupont, McChouffe, St. Bernardus Christmas Ale and Stone Arrogant Bastard — and there are at least 40 more well-chosen offerings in the bottle.• Signature dish: Roast pork loin with apple walnut sausage and braised greens
• Entree prices: $15-$21
• Hours: Kitchen open 5 p.m. to midnight Mondays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; noon-11 p.m. Sundays. Bar open late.
• Reservations: Yes
• Credit cards: Yes
• Online: www.thebookhousepub.com
