The scene is markedly different from the plush high rise multi-million dollar look of so many new restaurant openings in Atlanta these days.
The space is small, almost cramped, and the hippest thing about the dining room besides an unearthed, hand-sandblasted wall that's home to a bank of seating is a conspicuous "step down" sign that leads into the dining room, (which always leaves me wondering how many people haven't). Outside, overgrown rosemary bushes mark the entrance with a heady perfume of pine, and serve as a harbinger of things to come.
Sotto Sotto, the island of Italian purity in Inman Park, will turn 10 next year, and it is every bit the wonder now that it was when it opened in 1999. Then, Atlanta couldn't get enough of country bread dipped in estate-bottled extra virgin olive oil (and this was long before EVOO was in our menu lexicon); the dizzyingly wonderful mushroom risotto; the fresh fish specials; the now-famous tortelli di Michelangelo with its buttery sage sauce and plump veal-, chicken- and pork-stuffed pasta.
And we still can't.
Through the plush brown curtains of the entryway comes an experience not dissimilar to falling down Alice's rabbit hole: a wondrous experiment of the senses, and it's all done — as if by magic — in the smallest of kitchens. While the rest of Inman Park splits its seams around this restaurant's tony Highland Avenue address, Sotto Sotto quietly remains an anchor to what's real about the Atlanta restaurant scene: good cooking that uses honorable ingredients.
Owner Riccardo Ullio has branched out to open other beauties — Cuerno and Beleza were both among the city's best newcomers last year — but Sotto Sotto is his loveliest achievement. From Milan, Ullio's passion for everything, from aged Balsamic vinegar to the World Cup (witness the flags adorning his restaurant Fritti, next door) pulses through Sotto Sotto, from the all-Italian wine list (which, to explore, is a little like daydreaming your way through Italy) to the menu of simple, all-out Italian soul food.
In a city that has had a hard time understanding real Italian cuisine, Ullio's menu at Sotto Sotto has remained a true testament to how simple Italian cooking actually is. Darbelio Palma, who is actually from Mexico, serves as chef de cuisine, having apprenticed his way up through the ranks the old-fashioned way, starting as a dishwasher from the day the restaurant opened.
Late summer is a favorite time to go, since Ullio usually gets fresh celeste figs from local Moore's farm and serves them with something yummy — go quick or you'll miss them paired with a light bread pudding, not too sweet, of white chocolate and blueberries.
Branzino (European sea bass) will most likely be the 'pesce arrosto' this time of year, served whole, wood-roasted and filleted at the table, dished up with roasted potatoes and a helping of the kitchen's exquisite garlic spinach. See? Very simple. No goppy sauces, no complications.
Over nearly 10 years the restaurant has managed to excel at several dishes beyond just the sage-y Michelangelo: Sotto Sotto has become the city's haven for risotto, and risotto al funghi, with its woodsy earthiness and robust flavor, manages to remain one of Atlanta's finest offerings. Risotto mantecato proves a close second — canaroli rice (the Cadillac of rice) stirred to perfect texture with the sweetness and acidity of caramelized onions and aged Balsamic vinegar. Even something as elemental as spaghetti alla vongole (spaghetti with clams, tomatoes, peppers and olive oil) is so rewarding — a simple mix of ingredients that blend into a bowl of rich broth peppered with flavor, just right for dipping slices of the rustic bread.
The dining room has been tamed of its loudness with the addition several years ago of a dropped ceiling that absorbs sound well, and when the weather finally cools, autumn will bring nice couplings on the tiny, thyme-ensconced patio. Close-knit tables give a very European feel, and the dining room staff — many of whom have been there for years — continues to impress, either in the wake of a dropped wine glass or in an offering of Nebbiolo by the glass that wasn't available the week before.
No glitz. No glam. Elegant, but simple. Sotto Sotto proves that Atlanta does have a dining soul after all.
Food: Italian
Service: Professional, cordial, well-versed in wine and food
Address, telephone: 313 North Highland Ave., 404-523-6678
Price range: $$$
Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express
Hours of operation: Open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to midnight.
Vegetarian Dishes: Insalata mista, insalata di farro, insalata Caprese, lots of pasta options
Best dishes: Antipasto misto, tortelli di Michelangelo, risotto al funghi, risotto mantecato, pesce arrosto
Children: For early evening hours
Parking: Complimentary valet
Reservations: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes
Smoking: No smoking Noise level: Medium
KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region. Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area. 
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining. 
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss. 
Fair: The food is more miss than hit. Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.
Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)
