Johnnie MacCracken's Celtic Firehouse Pub

While many metro pubs are getting fancier, with contemporary décor and updated menus, Johnnie MacCracken's Celtic Firehouse in Marietta is unapologetic in celebrating a time when bars were dim and smoky and, well, kind of grubby. But both the Irish-influenced menu and the sprawling beer list offer some pleasant surprises. And the friendly servers and lively regulars make MacCracken's a fun place to hang out.

OLD SQUARE SCENE:

Located on historic Marietta Square, MacCracken's was once a firehouse, and later a savings and loan. There are still two working bank vaults in the building, but the long, narrow space has all the hallmarks of a classic dive. Tile floors, plenty of well-worn wood, and walls plastered with bric-a-brac all set the scene. There's a cozy bar in front, along with a tiny open kitchen and an adjacent area for live music. Further back, find a pair of intimate, living room-like spaces. And outside, a rustic patio features a tiki bar and a fire pit, perfect for those roaring good times.  

FAIRLY IRISH FARE: MacCracken's bar-savvy menu has small bites and fried items that are available until closing. Among them: beer-battered cod tacos, English-style chips, baked artichoke-cheese dip with pita chips, and soft pretzels — plus ploughman's platters of cured meats and cheeses. There's also a daily meat-and-two lunch special and an all-day full Irish breakfast with a corned beef frittata. But the main attractions are sandwiches and takes on traditional Irish fare, including barley-based lamb stew and shepherd's pie made with ground beef, root vegetables and Irish cheddar. Alton Brown's corned beef and cabbage is named for the local resident and Food Network star, who shot a 2007 St. Patrick's Day segment of his show at the bar. By any name, the dish is what to get at MacCracken's. The brined brisket (cured without nitrates) is steamed in beer and served up in thin, fork-tender slices on a platter with a hefty portion of braised cabbage, parsnips, carrots and garlic mash. The same beef comes in the Irish Po-Boy, stacked with slaw, lettuce and tomato, on toasted ciabatta slathered with butter and mustard. The grilled Reuben on rye may be the popular favorite, though. 

DRAFT AND BOTTLE: The bar carries a full complement of liquor, highlighted by a good selection of Scotch and Irish whiskeys. Beer lovers will find lots to like from the usual Brit pub suspects (Guinness and Bass) to Wells Bombardier and Samuel Smith's ales, and a number of Belgian and American craft beers on draft. During a recent visit, that included Chimay triple, St. Bernardus Abt 12 and Dogfish Head Punkin. One warning: If you're ordering a pint, you'll need to beg your server not to put it in a frosted glass.

HOURS: 11 a.m.- 3 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays (limited late menu). Closed Sundays.
CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard; Visa; American Express
PRICES: Appetizers and late night menu, $5-$10; salads and ploughman's platters, $5-$10; sandwiches and Irish fare, $6.50-$9.95; desserts, $5.
RESERVATIONS: No
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Corned beef and cabbage; Rueben sandwich; cheese platter
PARKING: Street
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: 21-and-over bar, smoking allowed.
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate-loud
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: A convivial Irish pub on Marietta Square, with surprisingly good food, a big beer list and live music.