First Look: Diner, Atlantic Station

264 19th St. N.W., Atlanta. 404-600-6151, dineratlanta.com.

Diner, the new restaurant from “angry chef” Ron Eyester, finally opened last month in Atlantic Station. The ’50s-style breakfast, lunch and dinner concept was originally slated to open in July 2014, then pushed back several times, including while Eyester was taping “Top Chef: Boston.” Eyester’s other three restaurants, Rosebud, Family Dog, and the recently revamped Timone’s, are located in Morningside.

The look: Prominently situated in part of the former Fox Sports Grill space, Diner anchors the corner of Market and 19th streets. As the name suggests, the build-out recalls shiny and cozy classic diner decor with some contemporary twists, including reclaimed wood and a spacious outdoor patio.

The scene: At lunch time one recent sunny afternoon, the patio was packed, while many tables and booths around the sprawling dining room remained empty. Eyester was on hand, checking on guests, delivering orders, and explaining that there were still some kinks to be worked out, but that the menu would soon be expanding.

The food: The current menu isn't tiny, ranging from appetizers, soups and salads to sandwiches and steak and seafood entrees, all prepared with chefy touches. For starters, "Disco Fries" ($9) are a take on poutine with melted mozzarella, brown gravy and parsley gremolata, and a lobster cake ($13) is plated with white bean succotash and shrimp veloute. A grilled Monte Cristo ($10) is constructed with shaved pork loin, aged gruyère and pepper jelly. Entrees include short rib stroganoff ($18) with kale and sour cream.

The drinks: Right now, Diner is BYOB, with no corkage fee. But the planned beverage menu will include signature cocktails and "classic martinis," a half-dozen beers on draft and a concise wine list.

The extras: There's a soda fountain near the entrance, serving up shareable High Road Craft Ice Cream milkshakes and sundaes ($8/$11), housemade sodas ($3) and egg creams ($4.50). On the all-day breakfast menu, the Breakfast of Champions ($13) includes two eggs, homefries, grits, sausage and silver dollar pancakes.