Driving up Ellsworth Industrial Boulevard toward Bone Garden Cantina, a giant mariachi skeleton figure with a guitar marks the spot. It's the handiwork of Michael Benoit, co-owner of the Vortex, the hip burger and beer joints famous for the laughing skull motif and "idiot-free zone" attitude. Benoit and his wife, Kristen, opened Bone Garden in June as an outlet for the kind of Mexican food they like to eat. And so far, people are packing their cozy corner of the Lumber Yard office complex to gobble it up.
BONES ABOUT IT
Once home to Ambra (a different kind of Mexican-style restaurant), the industrial brick-and-steel surroundings have been reinvented by the Benoits, decorating it with a colorful Day of the Dead theme. A huge canvas with skeleton performers hangs above the bar like a funhouse proscenium arch. Elsewhere, there's a triptych depicting a Dia de Los Muertos wedding party, attended by bony angels and devils. Several sculptures stand on perches along the walls, and a huge lighted star is suspended from the ceiling. Altogether, the effect is sort of psychedelic chic and cleverly entertaining. In keeping with the no-nonsense stance of the Vortex, the cover of the Bone Garden menu declares the philosophy of the house, flatly stating that, "If your idea of Mexican food is ground beef in flour tortillas covered in melted yellow cheese, this might not be the place for you. ..."
ECLECTIC MEXICAN
Indeed, everything at Bone Garden does appear fresh and cooked-to-order. The menu is a la carte, except for pollo en mole — chicken leg and thigh meat covered in red mole sauce, served with rice and tortillas. But the sprawling, reasonably priced offerings include all manner of tacos, enchiladas, sopes, tamales, burritos and quesadillas, making it easy to create a meal to suit your own taste. Starters include tangy, citrus-marinated mahi-mahi ceviche and chunky guacamole spiked with tomato, onion and cilantro. Tacos come on fluffy corn tortillas. The Al Pastor is a savory mix of pineapple-marinated pork, guajillo peanut salsa, shredded cabbage, cilantro and onion. Sopes are tender and tasty corn masa cups, with a choice of fillings, topped with refried blacks beans and crumbled queso fresco. The pollo guerrero enchilada combines spicy chicken barbacoa with tomato salsa, chihuahua cheese and sour cream. For a refreshing side, try the Oaxacan-style betabel salad — sliced roasted beets, spinach leaves and scallions, tossed in vinaigrette, with orange bits and queso fresco. For dessert, the sweet banana empanada is a surprisingly satisfying bite of fried pastry, made more decadent with a dollop of whipped cream.
BOOZE AND BEER
The house margarita ($6 on-the-rocks), served in a lovely tall, green glass, is a sweetish blend of Sauza Silver tequila, triple sec, lime juice and sweet and sour mix. Other, more adventurous concoctions range from red sangria, with freshly muddled fruit, to a premium elderflower margarita, mixed with Don Diego Santa Anejo. The beer list features a full list of Mexican lagers, Red Brick ale and, fittingly, Rogue Dead Guy Ale and SkullSplitter, a big "Orkney Ale" from Scotland.
• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
• Prices: Starters, soups and salads, $3.25-$7; a la carte Mexican dishes, $2-$7; sides and condiments, 25 cents-$2.50
• Credit cards: All major
• Reservations: For six or more
• Recommended dishes: Tacos, tamales, sopes, banana empanada
• Parking: Lot
• Wheelchair access: Yes
• Smoking policy: Smoking outside in designated area
• Noise level: Moderate to high
• Takeout: Yes
• Web site: www.bonegardencantina.com
• Verdict: Dine among the skeletons at this fun, fresh Westside Mexican restaurant and bar.
